julie_barber

I think last time I wrote we were heading off to the Indian backwaters in Kerala - was fantastic.  They've converted all of these old rice barges (kettuvalums) into great boats to stay on while you check out the life of the people who live in thbackwater communities.  So it was basically a couple of days of kicking back, taking snaps, reading, drinking cold beer, being fed great curries, buying fresh seafood from little local boats that float past - was a bit embarassing actually, as there were three staff on our boat, for just Dee and me.  I did offer to help the chef Anthony, but he seemed to think my time was better spent out on the deck with beer in hand!  

 

After that we took a train down to almost the southern tip of India and spent a couple of great days at a beach called Varkala.  From there we took our flight out of India into Sri Lanka - first time I've ever had a hand written ticket for a flight - no wonder they want you to arrive early.  

 

As we landed in Colombo Airport, the first other aircraft I spotted was army choppers leaving the military base next door, which seemed to be a hive of activity (a little too much for my liking!).   Colombo Airport is brand spanking new and pretty impressive. 

 

In lots of ways, India and Sri Lanka are similar - but there are lots of subtle differences, too - if India's a kid with A.D.D, full on all of the time., then Sri Lanka's the placid child in the corner.  The pace of everything here is slower - the streets are cleaner, there seem to be fewer beggars, the people smile a lot, the tuk tuks are newer, there's less beeping of horns, less yelling, less stench.    Overall, a very pleasant place to spend some time - except of course, there's the overlay of the problems with the Tamil Tigers, which you notice everywhere, particularly in Colombo, where in the inner city, there are checkpoints on most street corners.  Luckily for us, we smile at the boys with guns, they realise we're foreigners and we get waved through.  The poor locals often get stopped, have to get out of their car, show their papers, sometimes even have their cards searched (lots of poles with mirrors on the end to check underneath cars, too). 

 

The first afternoon we headed to a famous Colombo homewares store called Barefoot - as well as great homewares it has a cafe in a garden out the back.  You should have seen the look of glee when we wandered out there, found a live jazz band playing (Sri Lanka's version of the Buena Vista Social Club), found a table under a frangipani tree - and could order a nice cold glass of New Zealand wine - bliss!  

 

Later that afternoon we headed to the Galle Face Hotel (where the waiters still dress in vests and bow ties, as they did when the place was ruled by Brits all those years ago).  So we sat on the lawn, drank cold Sri Lankan beer called Lion, and watched the sun set.  The place was heaving with locals, tourists and expats enjoying some Sunday sherbies.  We looked over towards one edge of the property and spotted an armed guard.  Then realised there was a tower a little further back, with a few more guards, with similarly big guns.  Then looked out to the water and realised the boat cruising back and forth was actually a navy patrol boat, with guns all over it pointing in every which direction.  Quite peculiar to be sitting having such a nice beer and realise they might know something we don't!     

 

While we were in Colombo, we thought we should pop in on the Australian High Commission and just check the latest on the no-go zones - so we did what we though would be a quick walk there - and discover the commission is a completely flattened block.  After a few more kms, we finally found the new commission - a brand spanking new building, with some very impressive security - not sure if KRudd would have approved this diplomatic expense though!  

 

After a few days in Colombo, we took the train from Colombo to Kandy - the first class observation saloon cost $3 for a four hour trip - the saloon is this little wagon they attach to the back of the train - and it was seriously the bumpiest train trip I've ever been on! 

 

From Kandy we hired a driver, Tissa and spent a few days seeing the cultural triangle - we climbed Sigiriya (Sri Lanka's answer to Ayers Rock), saw the cave temples at Dambulla, and rode bikes around the ruins at Polonoruwwa.  We also visited an elephant orphange, which was really cute - you can help bottle feed the babies - and then watch as all 50 of the elephants walk to the river for their daily bath time.  Some of the elephants have lost their mothers to poachers, others have been injured and can't cope in the jungle any more (one had its ear bitten off by a leopard, another had lost a foot to a landmine) - so the rangers bring them to the orphanage, which was great. 

 

We also visited an ayuverdic spice farm, where we found out the secret recipe for Oil of Olay - I'm sure you'll notice how young looking I am when I get back!

 

Tissa was a lovely driver, even took us home to meet his family - although after the madness of Indian drivers, he was the other extreme - I don't think we ever got above 40 km/hr!!!  So between his driving, and checkpoints, a short 100km journey can easily take four hours!  We decided to take the train from Kandy down to Nuwara Eliya, thinking it would not only be scenic (you snake through tea plantations), but also, it might be quicker.  Wrong.  The train doesn't go above speeds of 20 km/hr!

 

Nuwara Eliya is a lovely place - because the Brits started the tea plantations, it's really like a slice of the UK - Scottish Highlands even - there are rambling old mansions everywhere, with names like St Andrews and The Grand - all with roaring fireplaces (which you need - it's been getting down to just under 10 degrees here at night - a big shock after 30 plus everywhere else!).

 

We've also stayed at some amazing places:

 

Other weird things:

Anyway, got another train to catch - hope you're all well