Beyond the Hotel Door

We sat with the spectators cheering from the bleachers as the horses paraded around the half-moon arena, the freshly painted colours of red, white and blue already smeared from the presence of farm animals. The air was thick with the breathe of hot chica wine, greasy red meats and the lingering presence of fans who had been there since morning.

Two huasos waited for the calf to enter the warm up zone. They wore red and white striped ponchos and straw, broad-rimmed chupalla hats. At their heels, the hungry teeth of 4-inch spurs reflected the afternoon sun.

The calf entered, shy of its new surroundings but determined to avoid the prodding and probing it had just escaped. The huasos strode up, high upon their matching brown mares with white stripped noses. Frightened, the calf edged backwards and met with the impossible barrier of the fence. He trotted sidewards, the horses followed, he ran, the horses chased.

His panic signalled the game was ready to begin. The gates were pulled open and the calf took flight, the clock started and the audience moved slightly more forward on their seats. A lot was at stake here: the money, the pride, the national spirit.

Back and forth, the horsemen rammed the calf against the polar ends of the fence, the skin of the animal's neck, side and rump rippling from impact. The points tallied higher on the billboard as rump continuously hit home first. The next two huasos wearing blue and white waited impatiently for their calf to enter the warm up zone.

After the winner was announced, the contestants in their traditional dress gathered together in the mud to imitate the dance of the rooster, circling around their selected hen in her traditional dress, both waving handkerchiefs in the air.

Neon-Chilean flags guided us from the rodeo and through the streets of Chillán, past the provincial jail that let lose its inhabitants during the latest earthquake and past the giant concrete shopping mall, flashing American brands. In the distance we could hear the jiving of modern Chilean rhythms beckoning us onwards. We wanted to continue celebrating Fiesta Patrias, despite our conflicting thoughts.