The Bell Tower

A church. Yes, I hurried to a church on my first evening in Granada. Now I don't normally frequent houses of worship when I'm not traveling, but to breeze by any of Central America's cathedrals, well, that might truly be a sin.

The colonial city of Granada, in particular, holds some of the most stunning churches you'll see. But there's one that holds a magical bell tower accessed only by a dark spiral staircase. The Iglesia de La Merced welcomes visitors of all nationalities and creeds to ascend the tower for a suggested fee of about one dollar, or 25 cordobas. Save your climb for sunset, and you'll feel you've just gotten the best deal in your life.

When you emerge at the top after a dizzying amount of stairs, you'll feel pulled to look in all directions at once. Don't attempt this, as it is impossible. I pace the perimeter for a half hour, pausing to look out at the rich blues of Lake Nicaragua, the jagged crest of Mombacho volcano, and of course, the orange orb slowly dropping lower and lower on the horizon.

But walk more slowly, and you'll start to notice the intricacies of the city beneath you. The vibrant mosaic of courtyards inhabiting nearly every home. The flocks of green parrots diving and chattering amongst rooftops. The street vendors waiting and the children playing. The stone of the church shifting from gray to peach and violet hues. This is the city I have come to know and love.

I've unexpectedly visited this bell tower multiple times within the past few years, and I've been gifted views of a rainbow stretching over Lake Nicaragua and a full moon hovering over the golden Cathedral de Granada. The cityscape is ever-changing, and it's well-worth a pause to soak in its subtleties from a new perspective.