Seeking the unexpected

Flying from one side of the over-sized four-wheel drive to the other, watching children on the street fade into the distance, missing our vehicle by a hair. Lumps in our throat as we clenched onto the seats, scooping the car in front around to our rear, leaving a dusty trail down the narrow roads to Varanasi. Numb to death-threatening road experiences, we arrived in a dizzy haze.

Suddenly there was peace. The hostel was nestled amongst alleyways and tall buildings, a neighbour to the Ganges and sprawling eateries hidden behind dark corners. The silence engulfed us. Our minds wide open, we checked in and went for a walk.

We paused at a small lassie shop to reenergise. It wasn’t long before we saw groups of men carrying bodies wrapped in orange and gold cloth on their shoulders through the maze of walking streets. We ventured down to the water, finding ourselves on the sideline of smoky ceremonies. Men gathered to farewell their loved ones, lowering them into the burning flames, cleansing the spirits of the bodies, which had been brought across the country.

Consumed by the ritual, in complete awe, I couldn’t look away. I had been afraid of what I would see in Varanasi, but witnessing this spiritual part of life was surreal. I felt transformed. We stood in silence, absorbing the sounds, the smells and the bright colours. My own meaning of life shifted as the ghats continued to burn.

Buffalos cooled down on the riverbank after a day of sunbathing. Stray dogs gathered to watch us board our row boat and children jumped on to sell us floating candles, jumping off just in time to not fall into the water. A local man rowed us across the river to the sandbank. The sun set quickly and we arrived with darkness. The tide was too low to get close to the sandbank and too high to set foot in the water. Before I knew it I was hanging over the shoulder of our captain as he waded through the dark water. Extremely nervous to touch the sacred water which I had seen bodies and ashes released into, my heart stopped every time he jolted up and down on the uneven ground, bringing my face closer and closer to the water.

Our torches came out very soon after realising the sandbank was littered with human faeces. Our sunset boat trip had taken a turn and I couldn’t help but smile. Looking back at Varanasi reflecting its lights and burning fires across the Ganges, I learnt to appreciate the unexpected. That's the best part about travelling. Now its what I go looking for.