One of the most noticeable things about tones in the Chefchaouen medina complex is the marked absence of xenophobia. A small Muslim mountain community, relatively remote and provincial, yet in four days of roaming back walkways, taking photos at whim, on occasion nearly walking by mistake into a residential front entrance (because of the striking similarity of many house entrances to the openings at public alleys and terraces); I can recall maybe a total of three encounters with locals during which there was any sign of disapproval or resentment, either in words or presentation. The credo here, at least in regard to the swarms (well, at least crowds) of foreign tourists who frequent the medina is one of a rather benign indifference, often punctuated with sincere inquiries regarding one's nation of origin and a constant round of good natured "Bon jour, ca va?", (albeit often underpinned with commercial interests; but, hey, what are tourists for?...)
Of course, I am speaking of the social atmosphere and demeanor safely within the Chefchaouen's well worn tourist medina. Even a short venture outside the compound walls and a much more "real Morocco" emerges, with quite different social dimensions. Harsher, more solemn, more austere, with cracks of desperation, disenfranchisement, and, at times, hostility. I have noticed a rather stark and poignant dual tourist - nontourist socioeconomy in Morocco, a common denominator throughout the developing world, but perhaps a bit more articulate here. Tourist haven medinas in Marakech, Fez, and now Chefchaouen stand as distinct and upbeat enclaves of a tolerance and goodwill that comes with the rules and benefits of doing business,(of course accentuated by the warm and engaging nature of Moroccan social graces), yet these qualities can quickly recede in the more strained and disadvantaged communities which extend beyond medina walls. Would the real Morocco please stand up?
