I am writing from the airport in Udonthani, Thailand. This morning I left Laos, and I am heading back to Bangkok to start my month-long program with I to I. Reflecting on my short time in Laos, I am left with several contradictions. Overall , the country is very laid back and basic. Kids are always seen playing on the street, usually pantless. The vast green natural landscape overwhelms the tiny bamboo houses. Bison, goats, and dogs roam the street, often refusing to move for a honking vehicle. Many times I have heard "a simple life is a happy life". And yet, I can't help but feel that this country is experiencing change. In Luang Prabang, we encountered several occasions when the Lao people seemed to want to get as much money out of tourists as possible. Little things like giving a little less change than what was due, or charging for a service that wasn't rendered seem to contradict this simplistic lifestyle. Vang Vieng was a sight of contruction, with new bungalows being built throughout the small town. In Vientianne, a tuk tuk driver refused to take me to the bus station, because he wanted to take me on the longer, more expensive journey to the Laos/Thai border instead. I hope that increasing tourism in this country does not cost the price of losing its essence because it is a truly beautiful country.
Gena and I continued to enjoy our time in the French inspired Luang Prabang. We enjoyed many nutella crepes while walking along the streets. I particularly enjoyed the dance show at the National Museum (what used to be the Royal palace) and our nightly visits to the night market where Gena taught me a bit about the art of bargaining. We also had a wonderful day-long Laos cooking class where we met two women who taught in Vientienne, Laos about forty-years ago as part of the British aid. Their persepctive on the country and the changes it has undergone was certainly insightful. They also taught us the proper way to eat sticky rice: with your hands! On our last morning in Luang Prabang, Gena and I woke up at 5 a.m. so that we could witness the monks' collection of rice. Every morning, the monks and novices from all of the temples around the city line up with their rice containers in tow. They walk around the city, each collecting rice from the Buddhist followers who sit on their knees and give each monk a small quantity of rice. The massive number of boys in orange robes is quite a sight to see. The highlight for me came when the two monks who we had spoken to several days before (and given an impromptu French lesson to) both recognized us and gave us a big smiles. It was then that I noticed that we had not seen a monk over the age of 25 during our entire stay in Luang Prabang. I wonder why? Gena and I also noticed that these youngs monks and novices are simply young boys who seem much more happy to talk to the female tourists than to the male visitors. It was very interesting, and I am now even more curious for my upcoming 3-day stay at a temple in Thailand.
After Luang Prabang, Gena and I took a very windy and hot bus ride south to Vang Vieng, a small town known for its tubing and caves. We had a lot of fun tubing down the river, which is lined with bars that play American music and are proud of their zip-lines into the water, giant water slides, and mud wrestling pits. It reminded me a lot of a "Spring Break" spot. Gena and I made a few friends who we spent the day with. One of them had been tubing for several days; at the end of the day he showed us a cave off the river's path. It was breathtakingly beautiful, although I was glad we didn't try to venture into the dark cave without flashlights. In the evenings, Gena and I ate at local restaurants which true to the guidebooks, all show re-runs of Friends and other American television shows. AFter two days, Gena and I separated to continue on our travel journeys. I had a wonderful time exploring Laos with Gena and I will miss her as a travel companion.
It's time to board my plane to Bangkok. I hope you enjoyed hearing a bit about Laos. I will post pictures another time, when I have access to a computer that allows me to do so.
Many many hugs and kisses,
Jessica
