Tuesday 1st September
Fez, Morocco
A journey will always have it's easy and not so easy bits. Sometimes things run on times and some times they don't. The
fun is knowing which is what.
Our travel documents told us that we had booked passage to Morocco via a high speed ferry leaving Algercerias at 11:00am and arriving in Tangers. We arrived at the Embarkation point with plenty of time to spare to be confronted with an empty hall; not a sausage – no one. Finding the agent for the boat line was not a huge help as their English was not really great – they kept pointing up to the hall we had just been in. The good thing was that by now there were a few other bewildered travelers wandering around – mostly young backpackers. Finally we were able to ascertain that the 11:00am boat did not exist, that the 11:30am boat was delayed and that we should wait in the hall until somebody came. Eventually somebody did come and we were on our way across the Straights of Gibralta to Morocco at 12:30.
We didn't know what to expect. Africa smells different, looks different, sounds different but that what adventure is all about. Dorothy, we are DEFINITELY not in Kansas anymore!
On arrival we were met by our driver and guide for the next ten days , Mohamed, and his a recent model Hyundai People mover, with big seats and a lovely Moroccan carpet on the floor. We jovially refer to it as our Magic Car, Pet! Off we went for a 5 hour journey across the country side to Fez.
Our first impressions of the country is that it looks remarkably like Australia- dry and filled with eucalyptus trees. The journey took us though medium sized towns and small villages Highlights included the abundance of minarets, the shepherd snoozing in the shade of his donkey (as there are few trees and often very little shade anywhere) and the beautiful Rif mountains. That said, there is poverty here – of the scale and degree I have not seen since South Africa. Make no mistake, this a a country of extremes.
We arrived in Fez towards sunset and parked in a nondescript street. We grabbed our bags and began to walk down an alley way to a door in a bland wall. This was obviously the secret entrance! The door opened onto a small vestibule that led down a set of stairs to our accommodation for the next nights - Riad Yacout. We had stumbled into a scene from an Arabian Nights. Inside this nondescript entrance was a five story palace from the 19th century. A central courtyard filled with couches and tables with a variety of the most beautiful rooms flowing into it. Down another corridor was another courtyard with a swimming pool and more rooms. Our suite is on the top floor and seems like opulent Arabic movie set. This riad (big enough to be the hotel it now is) was described by locals as being a medium-sized wealthy family home.
It seems that we are the only guests here so we decided to dine in tonight. It was the best meal of the trip so far. Moroccan salads consisting of plate upon plate of anything ranging from spiced aubergine to beans, olives, carrots, beetroot and other delicacies to numerous to list them all. This was followed by Chicken and vegetable targine and the most delectable lamb kebabs. All served in our own private palace, courtyard with fountain flowing, silent wait staff, etc....
