Our first stop after goa was Ernakulam (so near Angamaly my home for 3 months!!). We checked into a guesthouse for Rs.150, very good but there was a downside (as there usually tends to be in cheap rooms) which was that the room was a mosquitos paradise, even more so with us (particularly Sam) as dinner!. We did not really enjoy the city much we spent a little time walking around but in the heat and suffering from the bites of a hundred mosquitos it was not a pleasant experience. We also had problems trying to find places to eat near our guesthouse where restaurants did not seem to be a priority, the discovery of Rs.17 masala dosas did however improve things a bit.
We spent one day in Fort Cochin which was much more likable than the city. Impatient to get there we decided to forgo waiting for the ferry and get a taxi (which ended up taking a lot longer and costing a lot more!). We spent the day wandering around the quiet(ish) streets having a look at some of the sights which were mostly churches and the famous chinese fishing nets, i think it is mostly the kind of ambience of the area that is the attraction which is pretty relaxed- there are some art gallerys and boutique stores and hotels. We sat for a drink over looking the river where we saw dolphins and could look over at the working of the fishing nets. Had some lunch in an Art cafe that displays contemporary indian modern art which you view accompanied by the sweet smell of freshly baked chocolate cakes. On this trip to the fort we did not go up to mattancherry or the jewish quarter of the island but we had a good day never the less. Our trip back to the city was on the small over crowded ferry sitting on the distinctly warm and noisy engine cover which was fast at only 15 minutes and a bargain at Rs5.
We left to go to Alleppey after only 2 nights, the mosquitos having driven us to distraction. We spent 2 days in Alleppey not doing much except for eating in the same and seemingly only decent restaurant near our hotel. The restaurant in our hotel was not a very attractive option, we went in once and were greeted by a dark dirty place full of flys and mosquitos. On sitting down we discovered that the guy sitting at the table nearest us had passed out after having drunk too much rum! Our attention having been attracted when i looked around to see who had thrown some water at me! and saw that the water had been thrown over this guy to try and wake him up! He was then dragged off hiccupping all the way! The hotel bar also appeared to be more of the same, full of drunk locals who could not handle there drinks.
We did not find a lot to do in Alleppey, walking around during the day we saw many places were closed except the numerous travel agencies for boat trips. At night there was more light and life with people making and selling flower garlands, numerous gold and silver shops and bangle stores.
We organised our backwater trip through Raja, a 'tout' outside our hotel- something that usually we wouldn't do, but it all worked out well. We paid the enormous amount of Rs.5000 but this was a lot better then the initial offer of Rs.9000. We had wanted to go from Alleppey down to Kollam further south, this however we were told by everyone we asked was not possible at the time of year unless you pay 'many rupees' so we did the round trip Alleppey to Alleppey. Our boat was better than we had expected, it had 2 bedrooms and a large comfortable sitting area out the front which meant a lot more space to move around than in the one we were shown we would have the day before. The food was really good with fresh fish, kerelan special currys, mountains of rice and chappati's and fresh pineapple. The only downside about the boat was that i think that it was the slowest one out of all the houseboats we passed (or rather that passed us!) it was however not a problem. We were told by one of the guys on our boat that there are about 1000 houseboats in Alleppey, soon to be even more by the looks of all the ones we could see being built by the sides of the water. There are so many variations in the boats, ranging from tiny one bedroom ones with only a little space to sit outside to some that are more like hotels with 2 floors numerous bedrooms, TVs, air-con and many other luxuries. Our route only stayed on pretty big channels and on a big lake which did mean that we did not see that much of the countryside, riverlife close up. We passed many fields of rice paddys full of workers wearing umberella hats to protect them from the blazing sun, and boats full of people going to and from work in their white headscarfs and wide brimmed hats paddles in hand. Sitting on the boat we were solicitated by the men from the local fish market, this consisted of a small canoe with two men and a boat full of freshwater prawns and fish. At night we were tied up next to local village on the lakeside where we heard once again the seemingly universal plea for 'school pens' which for once we actually listened too. Being on the water next too a lot of vegetation there was once again the problem with BUGs as soon as the lights went on 1000s appeared, all sorts, turning the white walls black! thank God for the mosqito net over the bed!. The next morning we were up early for sunrise which was very pretty sight accross the paddy fields and the palm trees. Life next to the water means that everything revolves around it, it is used for washing both clothes and bodies and transport being the only link to the mainland!
On arrival back in Alleppey we headed for the train station to get to Varkala to once again live the beach life for a week. We ate fresh fish which was every night displayed out side the restaurants along the cliff or on the beach. We watched some films and saw some crazy bollywood dancing performed by local kids/teenagers. We also met some interesting people, now possibly considering a career in the foreign office thanks to one of them. We saw some Celtic music at a secluded bar down the beach surrounded by candle lights and palm trees and owned by a scottish couple. We ended up talking to some guys on our way to the cliff top on the Helipad(!) who invited us to there house for dinner. They made chicken curry and showed us how to make chappati and paratha. It made for a different evening, they sounded to be from a well off family with houses all over the place, not sure what they do but they offered us jobs and i am not sure it was all that legal!
We went swimming nearly every day which was made more attractive by our proximity to the beach only having to walk down a small hill and you are there.
From Varkala we got the train to Chennai, where we got upgraded to 2A on the train. I think it is the only time that i have not been happy about an upgrade. 2A was just boring no people passing through to sell different foods or drinks and everyone closed off from everyone else by heavy red curtains! In Chennai we really did not do anything we did however meet a really nice couple from Germany in a bar where we spent a few hours talking over free (! the beer was really expensive) snacks. From there it was a 30 hour train journey to Calcutta that was not all that bad.
So now we are in Calcutta one more night to go and then off to Thailand, it had gone pretty fast and i don't want to leave but there are so many more places to see!
That is it for India. I will write again from Thailand :)
