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rain in the desert!

INDIA | Monday, 4 December 2006 | Views [677]

The desert is the last place that I would expect to see the windy and rainy weather more familiar with home but that has been the case the last couple of days in Jaisalmer. This weather definitely removed some of the charm as the relaxed wandering the narrow streets and relaxing on roof tops was no longer an option. It has led us to the conclusion that it is definitely time to head south to the sun. The streets in Jaisalmer are now slippy with mud and cow dung which is never pleasant; the lack of water (from the taps!) is also a little frustrating. It has been a good week though despite the lack of much sun! Jodhpur was good (and sunny). We walked up to the fort on our first day and spent a couple of hours there just looking around it was worth the money (Rs.250) to get in. Included in the entry was an audio guide which described the history of the place –as far as museums go it was very good. Walking around the city was a bit of a mixed experience; around the clock tower the market was full of all sorts. Different streets selling different merchandise and so many bangle shops! Away from this part of town it was not so good. We got lost walking from the guest house (which was at the other side of the fort) to the train station and found street after street with no shops, restaurants, street names or anything much at all. On one of our seemingly constant hunts for somewhere to get some juice and a sit down in Jodhpur we came upon a small guesthouse (/restaurant) and sat and spoke to the people there (I suppose owner) which ended up as a good way to spend a few hours. Nagendra, a curious and entertaining guy who wanted to learn some new chat up lines and cheesy one liners to add to his repertoire- could not help though, sorry!. He told us where to go and shop and eat (on the rocks! Supposedly the best place). I think that we are going to go and stay in his place on our return to Jodhpur before the big trip South to leave the rainy desert and blue city for good (this time!). Jaisalmer is a pretty relaxed place especially when you get over the initial scrum of hotel people at the train station and the pressure to go on a camel safari. On arrival we got accosted into a hotel by some guy who had managed to get through the police line (!). The room was only Rs.100 but we had the feeling that this was probably conditional on going on a camel safari, which was offered to us at Rs.9000!!! for 2 days 1 night a rip off! We or at least I decided pretty early on that I did not want to go on safari so they were out of luck especially at that price. We heard stories of people being thrown out of ‘cheap’ rooms as they had not taken the hotels safari option. We moved hotels after 2 nights into the fort to a guest house recommended by nagenda of jodhpur- a little more expensive but it had nice big windows and a window seat from where you could watch the world go by below. The fort at Jaisalmer is tiny you can walk from one end to the other in a couple of minutes passing by many shopkeepers keen to sell you anything and everything. The last day waiting for the train (having checked out at 9am) at 4pm feels like an eternity. Trying to find places to sit inside was a challenge. I think that we frustrated the shopkeepers by not buying anything- one told us to leave fast and never come back!! The weather and the lack of tourists (!) is obviously annoying but because we are western tourists we are not obliged to buy- this is one thing about some places in India which really gets to me. Lets hope that it is more laid back down south how I remember and that the weather is a bit better. It is a shame to miss out so much of the north but there is always next time.

Tags: Sightseeing

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