This afternoon I was jotting a few points down about San Pedro over a freshly-squezed orange juice in the main plaza. A plaza which is quite unusual in the fact that normally its the hub of action be it drinking, eating or listening to live music. But here its quite the opposite. It`s a walkway and 'nada mas.' It does however connect the town to all the amenities. To the right of me there is a simply designed church with evening mass, daily. Directly in front of me lies a market place selling almost everything they can possibly make out of llama wool: jumpers, scarves, over-the-knee socks, hats and gloves...you name it and they will make it! All extremely colourful and indeed distinctive as well as extremely over-priced! To the left is the way out of the town where tour bus after tour bus collects and drops people off every single day. And, lastly to the south where most tourists migrate to the bars, restaurants and tour operators for a variety of trips.
Having been her four days I`m getting serious cabin-fever. I have come to the conclusion that San Pedro is a stop-over. There is nothing special in this oasis for me. For one, it's too accessible and exploitative. To have the facilities of broadband, television, and fax destroys this whole conception of travelling an entire day to be away from amenities such as these. I also, as a tourist feel more exploited than ever before.
Fiona and Sarah are leaving today to head to Arica and then on to Bolivia. They are two lovely girls that I had met in Santiago. After a 'special' night in Bellavista (the Bohemian neighbourhood of Santiago) I had decided to head to San Pedro de Atacama to accompany them. At which point little did I know Gen and Jack where going there next! The first evening in San Pedro we strolled out from the hostel along sandy streets meandering down towrds the plaza to have drinks. We sat in deep discussion with wine and tapas in the late afternoon. As the sun set the temperature fell dramatically (as it does in a desert!) Fiona so articulately commented that, "it`s like going from the bakery to the freezer section in Asda!" I wish them safe travels for their onward journey north.
