A Ferry to Asia

The ferry takes you from Karaköy on the European side of the city to Kadiköy on the Asian side.

I stuffed the battered guidebook into the bottom of my equally battered rucksack and walked to Karaköy harbour. For three lira, the price of a can of Coke, I joined a hundred or so other people on their commute home from work.

I’d never been to Asia before. Of course I knew that going to the Asian side of Istanbul wouldn’t be enough for anyone to agree I’d really been to Asia, much less me, but it was still a fun idea to entertain. In the city where east officially meets west it seemed like the perfect thing to do.

Fate was on my side as, for an impromptu trip, I had timed it perfectly. The sun was setting over the city, and as the ferry pulled out of Karaköy I looked back to see the skyline of Istanbul perfectly silhouetted against the orange and red glow of the evening sunset.

Opposite me a child stood on his seat, his face pressed against the window. He traced his finger across the minarets, domes and skyscrapers that make Istanbul’s skyline so unique. Next to him his mother, covered completely by her black burka, looked up from her iPad. East meets west.

On a boat made up almost entirely of people travelling home from work, we were the only ones captivated by this view. Some gave it a polite glance but most just chatted or played on their phones while others stared that tired, absent-minded stare of commuters the world over.

Two men walked into the room carrying trays filled with tulip-shaped glasses, each filled to the brim with tea. Suddenly the room sat up. Coins jingled as people fiddled with their pockets and handbags, everyone searching for a Lira or two. “Çay” they shouted out but it wasn’t necessary. There’s always demand for tea in Turkey.

“Çay ister misiniz?” My brow creased as I tried to remember the Turkish word for yes. I know this word, I thought frustrated. I’ve used it at least three times today! Seeing me struggle he politely continued, “Would you like some tea?” I took one of the glasses and smiled, embarrassed that I’d forgotten something so basic.

The tea was strong, tannic and bitter, giving me the perk I needed to get me through until my next cup. Evet! That was the word! I looked up to tell him, to make amends for my cultural ignorance, but he was already gone.

The ferry docked and everyone poured into Kadiköy, while I stood there for a few minutes, savouring what I’ll always remember as my first trip to Asia.