For four weeks now I have had tough days and easy ones in the weeks that followed.I could tell how hard/easy my walk would be by watching the main checkpoint and street traffic as I approached the the main road from my alley.I see Nepali walking on street--easy day...I see white folks-ok day..I see no one but rifles-....This may be a tough day.I walk through 150-400 rifles a day......
I am not in Kansas anymore,Dorithy.
When the King declared a 24 HOUR CURFEW,the Maoists declared a strike untill the King fell.The protests are picking up.
Today,250,000 people marched today.They marched right through the police and Army lines.The rifles were ordered to shoot to kill....BUT they refused!.At the front of the protesters,were the moms,dads,sisters,and brothers of soldiers and police...
The Soldiers Refused To Shoot.!.This is Huge!..The Soldiers Refused To Shoot.!!!
On my way back to my hotel,I come across a march of some 10,000 protesters marching through Thamel!.There are 80-90 police with clubs guarding the narrow street that leads to the King's Palace..
White trucks,red commie flags a waving,joyful people.General celebration!The marchers are all pretty happy..I decide to kick back and watch the general joy of the people.
I climb up on the 3 front steps of a closed and shuttered store and watch the parade.What else can I do? .To many people marching to get to the other side.I am heading down that guarded road towards the King's place.An Aussie joins me.With a glance we can tell we both appreciate the sight and the signs of the pending Kings fall...One thought crossed my mind"Why don't the protesters attack the police?".Got them way out numbered.
As the parade ends,there are 100 folks bringing up the rear.THIS is where the police attack!.75 police rush into the street and beat everybody.Man,woman,kid,no problem.At my feet,people are being beaten.It is all around me....I can reach out and touch them!!...There is Blood..Lots....Again,I am so close I could reach out and touch the people being beatened.
I have to step back to avoid back swings as they beat the people..I am that close!..Right of me!..Left of me!.My God!!..Right in front of me!.It is a madness,the cries.The sound of the clubs finding their mark.I am surounded by the beatings.
Three times a policeman rushes me,with raised club.Three times they don't hit me...The 4th time?.....Well,the 3rd time might be a charm,but the 4th time,...I was fucked..
Cop #4 decided I DID need a good beating.The blow was aimed at my head,I jump,but not fast enough,striking me on my left shoulder.No pain...yet...But my left arm,numb, hangs useless,like dead weight....
It is pure madness now and I have been invited to join the game.The cop is looking at me and I decide I can take this bastard with one good arm.....Fortunately my brain kicked in and I don't attack..The cop and I look at each other again and he runs off to join his buddies in further beatings.
To my left,my new Aussie friend is on the ground with three cops beating him badly..To dangerous to help......."Sorry Buddy".......Turn right,there are hotels near, to get me off of the street....Left is where most of the beatings are taking place...Straight...More beatings and Right into that police line,guarding the road....
I go straight for the police line...People all around me are being beaten in the road as I side step my way through the violence,..There is blood,there is broken bones,there are children bleeding..I zig zag through the violence..I walk right right up and through the line of cops...They let me pass?.....I thought for sure,I was walking into a police beating.
Cool..Home free. This is great!...The horrors behind me? I try to place out of my mind....I could not help...I Can Not Help!...But I carry a heavy burden on my honor (or lack of)I did not try to help my new Aussi friend,who I left on the road,taking a beating.........What is wrong with me?..My left arm is useless,but the pain has arrived.
Now I just have to walk the road,which opens to the 6 lane road,2 checkpoints and I am in my hotel,sharing stories and adventures with fellow travelers.Having a few beers..My guard is down.,I'm planning dinner..I'll have chicken tandoori with......
FUCK ME!! ..............FUCK ME.......................FUCK Me......................
As I step on to the main road to palace, a wide road,6 lanes wide, sidewalks,,60 yards in front of me,stands a solid,shoulder to shoulder line of combat riot police.A tire burns behind me.Rocks ,bricks,glass,at my feet..,Full shields,large clubs...Gray camo.In fromt.....Behind them is a solid line of green camo and more green camo behind them.100 gray camo..200 green camo...the green camo?..Who gives a shit?...I was focused on the gray in front of me.
This was clearly a blockade........Not a check point..NO ONE shall past....I am the only person on the riot scarred wide street,smoke rising,.Tear gas in the air.I can not take my eyes off the 1st line.There are over 300 men in uniform between me and a cold beer.(safety).I have my passport and money,I can turn left or right and be in a safe hotel,off of the mad,violent streets,for just $12usd a night....but.....
As I approached that line of clubs and guns...
I Knew I Was Betting My Life..........
*I did not know it would not be not last time..............
I ask myself,""Can I get through this massive defense of the police state?."...
I doubt it...But "Do I want to try?".....
I ask myself,"Do I feel lucky today?,.....
"No...No I don't.......But I don't feel unlucky".....
"Do you have the courage to try?"...
I think,....."Yes..Yes I do."...I start forward towards the police/army 350 strong barricade.
BRAVE?...CRAZY?...OR JUST PLAIN FUCKING STUPID?
I find myself walking now.Towards the line of gray camo,shields and clubs.Can't take my eyes off of the clubs.I decide,first mean word or angry gesture and I will flee.....I figure worst case:I get a good beating,thrown in jail and my American passport gets me out in a day or two....
(It will make for a Great story for when I get home.).......
Yes.I was actualy thinking this...............That was my game plan..........
I'm getting closer now.30 yards away...I am not happy..I thought they would have chased me away by now..I want to turn and run.But like I have told myself before and in the days to come............
"You made your move,Bitch.Go for it!".
At 25 yards from contact,my eyes finally focus on the green camo behind the police.A solid 100 strong line of Soldiers With Rifles!..I nearly fucking die right then and there..
What to do?...What to do?...There is another 150 soldiers behind the line of Rifles.I truely want to run now...Again,I tell myself..
"You made your move,Bitch.Go for it!"
RIFLES! The 2nd line has Rifles..Alot of Rifles!!...Under my breath,with every step.I say"Fuck Me.""Fuck Me".....I now hope,..no..no.... I pray the nice riot police will chase me off..I do not want to face that line of Rifles..Just yell at me..Please...Spit at me...Clear your throat...I will turn and flee..No problem.....................
If I had seen the Rifles,I never would have tried this stunt...NEVER...It's to late....Fuck me...Fuck my oversight.............
Of course.I am the only man on the street without a club or rifle,..and I am not wearing those pretty cammo outfits either..I am right in the middle of the road too..I reach the line of riot police,they move slightly and let me pass...FUCK..!..Not what I wanted..I now face a line of 100 Rifles.I am very unhappy....
As I approach Death,I think to myself........"Damn Glenn..I knew you were a brave bastard,.but I didn't think you had this much courage."....
I reach the line of Rifles,they also move slightly and let me pass...No smiles and no hand shakes,.no hugs and kisses but no gunshots or knocks up side the head either....Now I have 150 Rifles on the ground,out of formation.I zig zag my way through them,to reach the side road to my hotel.
I reach my hotel,slightly acknowledge my travel friends and go to my room.I sit down on my bed and I have a good cry.Followed by some crazy laughter and more tears.
The shit I have been doing has caught up with me and this nervious energy is being released..Ignoring 24 hour curfews..The checkpoints....The Rifles... I walk pass every day,up close and personal....The danger...The uncertainty..The wieght of it all...I needed a good laugh....And a good cry...To come here and go out and play in the streets most fear not walk....Hell..The US Embassy cleared out all personal the day before and told every American to get out of the country.
Shit...When I came to India,the USA government was warning folks,"Do Not Go To India."...Five years later,,Why would I follow their advice now?
I am not sure I know anyone who would have pulled the stunt I just tried.Perhaps I was just curious.Perhaps I was an idiot.I just wanted to try....I sometimes like a little danger in my life...Why else would I have moved to India....And come here,to KTM.knowing of the King/Maoists situation.
Am I Brave?..Crazy?..Or Just Plain Fucking Stupid?................
*Am I getting my moneys worth now? ..Dorithy?
