Day 5:
Our day started at an ancient set of stone tombs, high on a hill. Round piles of rocks, all in a line, the tombs were thousands of years old and showed that wear. Framing was key. Spontaneous travel moments in places like this are hard to fake. When our guides told us about the age of these structures, I was surprised with the lack of pomp. No signage, no protection, this monument to the past existed as it had for thousands of years. This raised several questions, including what wear had been caused by time and what had been caused by unbridled tourist interaction. Or perhaps, what future remained for these unguarded remains. Unlike many of the forts we visited, this site held an authenticity and allowed access not normal.
In an interesting juxtaposition, our next visit was to one of the aforementioned forts, renovated and sterilized for tourist consumption. The history behind the structure held importance but its presentation lacked authenticity. I was glad when we quickly moved on.
With the sun high in the sky now, we made our way back up into the mountains to see the Grand Canyon we had missed yesterday. We encountered a strangle traffic jam when we arrived there. Just after pulling off the road, a long long line of white Toyota SUV’s filed in past us. With identifying numbers on their back window, tourist piled out of them and swamped the fenced edge of the canyon. It seemed like a land cruise ship made up of Land Cruisers and that 5 minute tourist attitude accompanied it. As soon as we could, the guides decided to take us to a more private overlook of the canyon. Greeted by a family of goats, this overlook was much more to my liking. They must have played with people before. One of them keeps smiling. And without the fences and “punters,” our photographic company was much more agreeable.
Realizing our affinity for the authentic, Ali and Saleh had decided to take us to another old village. Immediately upon arriving, we all got excited. Meeting a local for Omani coffee, our path to him was flanked by centuries old walls and tunnels. We sat and enjoyed coffee and lunch for a few minutes, but I was eager to get out and explore the village. With Jason shooting some video for the show, Simon and I rushed off to see what we could find. Sad to see the stay away and no photographers signs all over the place though. Wish I could be a ghost photographer some time, but that would likely be quite unethical.
Like most of Oman, the locals were wary and weary of photographers, especially women. I was quickly reminded this when I raised my camera, gesturing to an old woman trimming some reeds that I wanted to take her picture. Her reaction was instant and severe. Brandishing her sharp blade at me like a sword, her body language and rapid Arabic retort answered my request. I backed away quickly.
Not all my potential portrait subjects were as unresponsive, but many wanted something in return for my images. Shooting an archway, an old man sauntered past. Without thinking I asked for his picture, and raised my camera in suggestion. He started talking at me, but I had no clue what he was saying. It wasn’t until a young man with some English walked by and translated did I realize that he wanted compensation. Having never paid for an image before, it took me a moment to process, but his toothless grin seemed to good to pass up. Handing over a single Rial, I had a bought a model for 30 seconds. Definitely worth it!
When I met back up with Jason, he seemed frustrated and told me that the filming had taken way to long. So long that he had missed most of the evening light and had barely gotten any frames from the beautiful village. Having been overwhelmed by the focus it took to pack as much photography into our short windows of time in places, I couldn’t even comprehend how he did it while shooting a TV show. For once, it seemed like Jason was jealous of me and not the other way around.
Desperate for sleep after another long day, I went to bed right after dinner. This trip really is a dream.
