Peregrine Traveller

For such a politically and racially fragmented country, Malaysians are all to happy welcome anyone into their houses - particularly to celebrate Chinese New Year. It is early February in Kuala Lumpur but the air is still thick and heavy - the wet season isn't over yet. Across the city banners proclaim "Gong Xi Fa Cai" or "Selamat Tahun Baru Cina" and the cavernous malls are filled with music.

As a pale, red head Australian, I stand out more than any other Westerner - but for this long weekend, it may be to my benefit. The colour red is traditionally associated with good luck in Chinese culture. Through out the Malaysian Chinese community, red adorns houses, workplaces and shops. For Chinese New Year, which runs for two weeks, I am the luckiest girl in Malaysia.

The first few days of Chinese New Year is supposed to be spent a various relatives houses. I go with my boyfriend to his aunt and uncles house. Packed into a small villa are about fifteen small children, a dozen laughing adults busily preparing masses of food and a couple of sweet grandparents handing out sweets. I am immediately greeted with enormous enthusiasm. Aunties rush around handing out Ang Pows - money filled red envelopes for children and unmarried adults.

We are all stuffed with food - crackling duck, sweet and sour pork, longevity noodles and sweet tea. The various generations discuss work and school - comparing their children and boasting of school marks and new jobs.

The food is done, and it is time to gamble. This is my first Chinese New Year and I really have no idea what is going on, but I am now the centre of the attention. With my red hair, I am going to be the luckiest person to play. Through out the Hokkien-speaking people of South East Asia, white foreigners are referred to as "Ang Mo's", which directly translates to red hair. In centuries past, people with red hair were seen as ghosts; devils who only meant harm. Luckily that isn't the case now!

I am still slightly confused, but try to pick up the rules. I play badly, but I am given various mandarin oranges to hold to give me better luck. It seems to be working. Or maybe they are just letting me win. I scoop RM300 - about AUD $100. Later in the night, we head to a private slot machine room. I play for all the ladies, balancing mandarins in each hand as I hit the buttons. I win a lot and I get to keep 10%!

The sense of family, tradition and respect is amazing, and I don't think I will every forget the feeling.