So it's coming towards the end of Month One, and we've fallen behind with our blogging somewhat due to a hectic schedule, coupled with an unfortunate bout of food poisoning. Yes, it had to happen sooner or later, we just didn't realise it would happen simultaneously. But before we get to the tales of toilet tag team (Don't worry that's as much detail as we're going into) we must quickly fill you in on "the fun before the runs"/ "the bits before the sh...ocking sickness".
Check out the photo gallery of Kanchanaburi where, as well as the legendary Tiger Temple, we squeezed in trips to the Death Railway Museum and Cemetery, the seven-tiered waterfall at Erawan National Park (So called because when explorers first went looking for waterfalls there, one of them was heard to say "Erawan there, and eranother over there...." - in Scotland they're laughing!), Hellfire Pass (an infamous gorge dug out of the mountain by thousands of allied PoWs), a train ride along the Death Railway, and finally to the Bridge over the River Kwai. The day trip ended with a few cool beers with Dave and Lucy, a lovely couple we met on the trip, but the night ended with us all in a Thai nightclub (the only Westerners there)and warm Spey Royal Scotch Whisky. (The Thais love their whisky - it was only polite to join in!) As far as the direction this night went in - the photos say it all!
We dragged ourselves onto a bus the next morning to head on to Ayuthaya, the ancient capital, where we hired some push bikes and meandered in and out of ruins. It was a good way to see the old city and cycling really helps you blend in a bit, allowing you to see some different sights from walking the usual tourist route. Will definitely look to cycle again soon (as long as it's as flat as this place).
Not content with one ancient city we also took in Sukhothai (further north), which we visited on a day trip from Phitsanulok. Sukhothai is much better preserved, and you can visit the many ruins and temples within a lush, lake-filled park area. Again, we went for the old bicylces and wheeled our way around in the scorching heat. We did so in the company of Collin the Canadian, our new friend, who stopped us wandering past the bus stop that morning. People are so friendly here. Both the Thais, and the other travellers. Collin ended up sharing the next week or so with us (in fact he even shared the food poisoning - although he used a different toilet - a three person rotation would have been a logistical nightmare, especially with it coming out both ends! Sorry, too much information.)
Actually, it is doing this place a dis-service to mention food poisoning before mentioning how spectacular the food is. We discovered this fact, on our various long train journeys north. Despite each leg taking between five and seven hours, the time flies by as you pick and choose from the food vendors who get on the train for a few stops each. (Crif, the sticky chicken was as good as you said, although it didn't quite reduce us to tears!) Egg fried rice, fresh pineapple and mango, water, juice, beer, sticky chicken, coconut rice wrapped in bamboo, fried chicken in pandanas leaves - it puts the Virgin trains buffet cart to shame!
Chiang Mai is our latest stopping point and we've both slotted right in to the easy going way here. (Although we have drawn the line at growing our hair long and disregarding personal hygiene, as some of the Westerners seem to. Oh yes, there's no shortage of dreadlocked guys from Surrey, sipping fruit shakes and singing Bob Dylan on their guitars. On the subject of hair growth though, Anthony did have an experimental no-shaving period to see if it might end in a cool, bohemian beardy look, but alas he still looks like Shaggy from Scooby Doo- all fluff and nae ruff!)
The highlights of Chiang Mai include our two day trek north into the hills and Monk Chat. Monk Chat, as the name suggests, is an opportunity to chat to monks. (Some of them were Novices (yet to graduate as Monks) so Anthony helpfully suggested they could have a separate slot called Novice Natter. They're thinking that one over.)Jeannot swung into full work mode and was firing questions at our little group of monks, who originated from Laos and Cambodia, as well as Thailand. (You could say they were well and truly reccied). We found out a fair bit about Buddhism and the life of Thai monks. It was one of the most interesting parts of the trip yet and the monks were incredibly open, friendly and funny guys. None more so than the Cambodian monk, who interpreted our English names, and told us their Buddhist meaning. Anthony means "Look to the sky", while Jeannot means "Smiley Lady". His accent made this sound like "Smelly Lady", but after much laughter and sniffing of Jeannot, we settled on "smiley". (He wasn't there when she stood on the tiger poo obviously!)
The trek was also incredible. More challenging than we had anticipated, as our sore legs will testify. The first day was mostly walking up hills and through jungle paths with a waterfall dip to cool us down. We passed through various hill tribe villages, and finished in the Black Lahu village, watching the sun set over the hills. The hut we slept in with ten others was basic to say the least, and the cacophony of noise generated by the village cockerels, dogs, pigs, and cats ensured that our sleep was somewhat disrupted. The next day was the Black Lahu New Year, so the grunting, squealing death throes of the village pig was our alarm call. We ate breakfast, watching on in amazement as the family in the hut below us skinned, gutted and sliced poor little piggy in preparation for the New Year's party. We both eschewed breakfast bacon rolls in favour of toast!
Day two involved another challenging trek (where Jeannot slid dramataically downhill on her bahookie on at least three occasions. Pink shorts no more.) to the elephant camp, where we trekked on an old female elephant's back for an hour, before rafting (white water and bamboo) down the river all the way back to the minibus. Words don't do this bit justice, so check out the pics. Next, we head to Laos, via Chiang Rai, so communication may be low for a few weeks. We'll write again soon. Hope you're still enjoying the stories. Keep in touch.x
