Although our butts were incredibly sore after yesterday's biking, we sucked it up and biked south of Yangshuo to Moon Hill this morning. Moon Hill is named after the rock formation at the top of the hill -- a large arch forming an open circle. At the base two women pounced on us trying to sell us drinks. When we refused, they proceeded to follow us up the entire mountain. Granted the hike only takes about 30 minutes if you don't stop (which we didn't because we were being trailed and there's nothing like a stalker to motivate you to walk faster), but it's entirely uphill and fairly strenuous in the Guangxi heat and humidity. It turns out these poor women follow tourists up and down this hill over and over again trying to sell water and colas for a few yuan each. A humbling realization, like many here in China.
After the hike, we made our way to the Water Cave, which many many people had told us was a must-see in Yangshuo. Actually it's not so much of a must-see as a must-do: the highlight of the Water Caves are the mud bathes and hot springs. Though the cave was impressive in itself -- it's huge and has nice stalactite and stalagmite formations named for what they look like (think the Mini Great Wall, the Jellyfish, and the Snow Mountain) -- the tour was mediocre at best and we had a slew of little kids running around and looking like they were going to fall into what looked like the River Styx at any moment. The mud bathes, however, were lots of fun. Mud is surprisingly bouyant; it felt like floating in the Dead Sea, except that you expected Golem to creep up at any second. The Hot Springs were really really hot but very soothing after our long slog up and down Moon Hill. Conveniently, there was a cold pool right next to the springs so you could switch back and forth as necessary.
Unlike yesterday we managed to get back to the hostel before the downpour! We tried the local specialty of beer fish for dinner which was delicious. Tomorrow we catch the overnight night bus for Shenzhen and Hong Kong. It will be sad to bid the karsts goodbye.
-Clare
