Cambodia! Why have you left us? Was it because we had been sleeping with Vietnam?
Only leaving two weeks in this most welcoming land was one of our biggest mistakes so far. We just kept using more and more time in Laos and Vietnam, for some reason thinking we wouldn’t enjoy it. We’re writing this in Kalimantan, waiting for a plane to Bali, and the dregs of our Cambodian hangover still remain.
It’s hard to explain why it was our favorite country so far but the biggest factor must have been the wonderful people and their attitude to life. It didn’t have quite the dramatic variances of stunning landscape (Angkor Watt aside) that Vietnam had to offer but the most common phrase we heard in Vietnam was ‘Ýou buy from me?!’, where in Cambodia it was ‘Good luck to you’.
But, as I wipe the feverish dribble from my chin, I realise I’m supposed to be writing about entering Kampot, not whining about leaving it all behind. Plus I’d like to add that we really enjoyed Vietnam too, especially the further south we got, but little will scratch my lovely new rose tinted glasses I wear to think of Cambodia.
Anyway… Kampot was one of our favorite chillout towns. A simple sleepy community hugging the edges of a huge river in south Cambodia. The first afternoon was spent in a happy daze wandering around watching the locals line dancing in the town square, local kids learning traditional instruments in the town hall, and supping Angkor beer in the cosiest of funky bars that lined the river.
For two of the three nights we stayed in Olly’s Place, a collection of simple bamboo huts with a pier out into the river, allowing swimming or paddle boarding whenever we fancied it. Olly organized a motorbike and we sped out towards Kep, a town famed for it’s crab market. On the way we stopped for a coke at a random place where school kids approached us to practice their English and livestock approached the pool table to eat from the trough beside it.
We powered on to Kep, sampled some crab and got momentarily diverted by these amazing old French buildings that had fallen into disrepair, creating a ghost town like atmosphere for a stretch of the beach. Angie was particularly taken with one old building and was flirting with the fantasy of buying one to renovate and turn into a hostel. These thoughts were soon banished when we later got talking to some expats who explained the hassle and the corruption involved in owning property in Cambodia. Dream over, but probably a good thing.
On the way back we visited a maze-like cave with the help of some local kids. They had accosted us just outside and convinced us they could take us round. They were really good fun and took us on a tour which involved scrambling through tight spaces and clambering down vines. The only thing is, it wasn’t until we got back to Kampot when we realized that they had stopped us before we got to the ‘real’ cave, complete with ancient temple. Little scamps (not the phrase Ben used at the time), but it had been good fun anyway.
On the second night we went into town to take part in a local pool competition at our favorite bar. Really competitive but friendly, the locals would scream at the ball, or dance with joy then hi-five everyone in the room after a close victory. The band playing featured a bassist who was from Teeside, a happy coincidence. He offered Ben the use of his bass but he chickened out in much the same way that Angie chickened out of the pool competition. But great night and we felt we knew a few of the local characters, which was useful for the next night.
On the final day we made use of the free bicycle offer and Angie in particular really enjoyed slowly plodding about town, chatting to expats and spotting a passing elephant and mahout. That night we visited a place further up the river which had more of a university party / hippy commune feel. Also based on the river, we had visited it the day before only to find there was a blessing ceremony there, involving a monk, incense, chanting and a sacrificial pigs head.
Anyway, the place was run by a guitar playing thirty something Aussie and came complete with a recording studio that was free to use for guests. We really should have stayed there instead of Olly’s, but nevermind, we had a great night there listening to music and sharing beers with a few of the people from the previous night.
Kampot was a great start to Cambodia and we left feeling we could have stayed another week.
