Getting to know the locals: Running with the boars

Darwin quickly faded in the rear view mirror as we drove down the Stuart Highway toward Litchfield National Park. It was just two Canadian girls, our rented skeleton-decaled camper van, and the blistering heat of the Top End.

After marvelling at giant termite mounds, driving past bushfires, enjoying walks through dry bushland of banksias and paperbarks, and whiling away the afternoon in the cascading plunge pools of the Buley Rockhole, we settled into camp beside the water at the bottom of Wangi Falls. Signage indicating that crocs may inhabit the area wasn’t stopping people from diving into the indigo blue waters. “There are only freshies in there. They won’t hurt you.” Occasionally, salties (much larger crocs) are found in these various swimming holes too. After committing to not swimming in croc country, the immense heat and the beckoning swimming holes and waterfalls quickly got the better of us.

After our dip, we scrambled up to the top of the waterfall to watch the setting sun. I remarked that it was nice that Australia does not have any large mammals to be afraid of. Over the years of living in this new land, I have run into a number of their infamous and often feared critters, but none of which were furry land animals. That’s when we heard a rustle in the tall grasses around us. What was that? Must be a kangaroo or a bird. We continued walking. Then abruptly stopped. A dark and hairy wild boar stepped into view only metres in front of us. It was the size of a small cow. Standing there frozen, we realized an entire sounder of wild boards surrounded us. If threatened these creatures may charge and maul. The heat of the day was cooling and the dusk brings animals out to graze. Bad time for a pleasant hike.

Instincts kicked in. My friend, Emily was ready to fight. She grabbed the biggest stick she could find. I was ready to flee, yelled, ‘run’ and bolted. I wanted, needed to get out of there. Traveling around the Northern Territory already makes one feel vulnerable and a long way from anywhere. However, being alone on a remote hiking trail with the sun quickly fading and wild boars, with their sharp tusks, angry for having their dinner plans interrupted, I felt much more isolated and defenseless. Safely back at camp, panting, we laughed in relief and knew we still had a lot to learn about this land. The days of the unexpected that deviate from the plan are the ones that you never forget and make traveling the adventure it is meant to be.