Hello!
Well, this blogging thing has turned out to be quite difficult since we are on the move all the time! I wish I could keep this updated as I go, but as Ernest always said when he was at camp or saving the day, "C'est la vie, know whadda mean?"
We arrived in Goa, on the central western coast of India about 4 days ago. Our overnight train from Kochin, Kerala got in around 5 am, so we sat around the station to wait for daylight. It was almost a full mooon, and it glowed so brightly in the sky (especially since the power was out!) As the sky began to lighten behind some palm-covered mountains, we threw on our packs and set out on the 5km walk to the beach.
Some of you may have heard of Goa's reputation. Since the 70s (I think) it has been known as the place to find some of the wildest parties in the world. The beach we selected (because Noah's friend from the states is here) is not exactly party central. It's much more laid back. It would have been interesting to see crazy Goa, but I'm glad we are in a quieter place. It's much more my style. Patnem Beach is definitely the coolest beach I have ever been to. It is a beautiful brown sand crescent flanked on both sides by black rock peninsulas, making a cozy little neighborhood. Palm trees lean over the beach, trying to get the best view of the water. You can see the hills overlapping each other into the distance. Lining the beach, directly on the sand, is a row of thatch huts. These are businesses that serve as restaurants, bars, and they also have huts that you can rent out and sleep in, right on the beach! With names like "Namaste" and "Buddha Bar", they contain cushioned lounge-like seating under the thatch, as well as tables on the beach. At night, it is all lit by candles, twinkle lights, and what I like to call "jellyfish lamps." These are Indian-style cloth lampshades, shaped like little gazebos with dangly cloth legs. They hang in abundance from the ceilings of the restaurants, giving off a soft light and swinging in the breeze. They look just like glowing jellyfish at night. You can lounge in these places as long as you like, enjoying the candle light, lapping waves, and cheap (but weak) cocktails as the smells of incense and marijuana drift past. (Not that I do that!) Life is slow and good.
Couple of notes: This place attracts an interesting bunch of part-time residents, as you can imagine. Mostly from the UK, they come and bum around the beach for half the year (some rarely sober and others barely holding on to their sanity). Also, the only downer is that we are constantly approached on the beach by people trying to sell things or beg. THe other day we were approached 5 times in our first 10 minutes on the beach. This one woman was dragging her children around the beach, the younger one nursing and the older one buck naked and miserable. I don't care how poor you are, you can get a scrap of cloth to clothe your poor child! I think some of them do it on purpose to make themselves look more pathetic. It's sad.
Anyway, we found the cheapest grouping of huts on the beach. Mickey's, the "Oasis of Shade", is all the way on the end - the only establishment blocked off from the beach by and uncontained jungle of tropical plants. But it's clean, it's got a great shower and nice people - for us, we are living like kings! After our overnight train ride and extremely long day on the beach, we went over to the neighboring beach called Palolem. It is a little more happening than our beach. [On a side note:I tried to do something with my hair. It's getting a little longer and starting to rebel into a gravity-defying spike. Instead of trying to keep it flat and rocking the involuntary Alfalfa look, I thought I would embrace it and tried to style it a little. Kate Beckinsale rocked the spike in the 90s and looked totally hot! Mine looks a little more like Steve Martin in "My Blue Heaven". Oh well. What can ya do?] Anyway, we set off for Palolem. It was pretty wild, and overrun with European tourists (mostly English), but a good time. The night flew by with some drinks and interesting conversation and people-watching. One extremely drunk English guy covered in pink glitter latched onto me, trying to impress me with statements like, "I've got cowboy boots and my boss gets me tickets to Wimbledon." Normally I'm at least a little flattered when someone is hitting on me, but I think throughout the rest of the night I saw him flirting and touching other girls, other guys, and perhaps even some furniture he mistook for a person. Needless to say, it was an interesting and fun night.
Early the other morning, I climbed out on one of the black rock peninsulas. I sat right on the edge of the rocks, the Indian Ocean surging up to me, occasionally drenching me as the waves smacked the rocks and flew skyward. I grabbed a little snail and watched it come shyly out of its shell and flip over in my hand (one of my favorite tricks.) I perched out there for probably an hour watching the amazing ocean and thinking. It brought such happiness and peace to me sitting out on those rocks. I can't describe the feeling, but I felt so alive! The world is so beautiful!
One final story (I'm holding the guys up for dinner!). I ran out of sunscreen, so I bought some here. I was a little sketched, but it was Banana Boat spf 30. You'd think it'd be okay, right? Well, I applied it liberally throughout the day. In the afternoon I started to feel a little hot and pink. I got out of the sun once I realized what was happening, but by dinner time, my skin looked the color of raw meat. (Those of you who have beached with me know what I'm talking about.) It's the worst burn I've had in years! I am still radiating heat. At least the Indian girls can't exclaim how white my skin is anymore! I should have known that Indian sunscreen would be shady. Ha!
Well, I've got to run. But I'll say lastly that the sunsets here are like none I've ever seen. They sky does not change color. It stays a hazy bluish gray, but the sun itself becomes a sharply-outlined neon orange ball of fire in front of this grayish sky, getting redder and redder until it fades into the purple haze on the horizon. Incredible.
Much love!!!
Hay
