Hoi An reminded me a lot of lovely Luang Prabang in Laos. The old town is a collection of pretty, narrow streets with colourful old French buildings. There are nice cafes and bustling markets and a million places to get hand-made clothes.
We hired bikes one morning and cycled around the streets and over the river, which we thoroughly enjoyed. The best bit about it was that you could whizz past all the people hassling you for your business. This was really the only thing we didn't like about the town (except for our hotel room with water coming through the ceiling!) as there were agressive touts everywhere again and a lot of hiking up of prices when a tourist tries to buy anything. It was a shame, but we weren't getting much of the 'friendly' vibe that the Vietnamese are well-known for as it seems as though business is the loudest language on the tourist trail. Still, everyone has the right to make money, so...