Tue 18th - a long full day on the train started with what seemed like forever stuck somewhere near the border in Mongolia. We were able to get off the train and pay to go to the loo. Over night all the other 15 odd carriages of the train had disappeared and gone somewhere else in Mongolia. It was cold! We then had to board and Mongolian customs and immigration came on board. The Korean girl had to leave with immigration, she came back later to get her wallet to pay something? After this we left then got to the border with Russia where again we had to wait and customs and immigration came on. Finally once it was all done we could get off here as we were stuck wherever we were for 4 hours. We stuck with some others and went to this tiny cafe. There was a vague English menu. Had a salad and some stale bread, Troy some kind meatball and rice. Then we found a small shop and got a chocolate bar and small cake. Back on the pokey train. So cramped and the Korean girl kept bringing her mate in for chats and eating, then she encouraged this annoying Russian toddler to keep comimg in and climbing everywhere . At around 10pm we reached Ula Udan and the Russian lady and the Korean got off, yah! We had the apartment for the rest of the journey overnight to ourselves
Wed 19th - train pulled in to Irkutsk around 7.30am. It was dark, cold and full of people. We wanted to take the tram 1 to the hostel as they had given us directions but when it passed by it was jam packed. So then we thought easier to get a taxi. The hostel said to pay no more than 300rupkes. The first guy said 500 to me then Troy asked another guy who said 800! We opted for the tram which wasn't too bad and cost us both together less than 100ruples. The next task was to get off at the right stop and find the hostel. We were lucky as two ladies who spoke no english helped us, in fact one even walked part of the way with us, very kind. The hostel was called The Best Hostel. It was brand new, clean etc. the room was small and 2 bunks. The shower was really odd as the walls didn't quite close and if you were having A shower someone could easily see you? We showered and walked to find something to eat. We discovered an undercover market with fruit, bread etc. After this we walked to the tourist information. We were lucky. As soon as we walked in they asked us to stay until 11am as a Tv crew was coming in and they wanted to interview some tourists about Irkutsk (apparently they had won some Russian prize for tourism). I got interviewed and both Troy and I got filmed. The show was shown for about 5 mins the next day. After tourist info we decided to follow the greenline tourist trail which was pretty awesome. Before that we had a coffee in Lenin cafe on Lenin street which was really cozy. We then followed the green line which took us around numbered sights and gave a history of each place. Was very interesting but it just got really cold so we didn't finish the last few as decided to go find somewhere to eat. We by chance found a food court and I got some rice,wedges and veggies. After that we came back to the hostel and then went to a supermarket nearby.
Thu 20th - got up and had some Bernie then went to the market to grab some food as we were going to visit Listvyanka at Lake Baikal. We walked to the bus station but it was hard to find when and where the bus went from so we asked around and got pointed in various directions and eventually ended up in a mini bus. It was a bit strange as people just got on and off along the way. We were dropped off at the museum at Listvyanka And walked about 5km to the town centre. The lake was huge and saw seals in the water. When reached the end walked around a little market then at 2 pm took a bus back to Irkutsk. back in irkutsk had a drink at Lenin cafe again then back to hostel. Beans on toast for tea. Did some washing.
Fri 21st - got up and went for a run. Was very cold and eyelashes had long bits of ice. Ran to the station to see about left luggage and then ran back. After brekkie did the remainder of the green line qnd went to post office to post postcards and had coffee in Castro cafe. Had some pancakes for lunch from supermarket. Then walked to the dam and the ice breaker. After this walked to the church of Kazan icon of Virgin Mary. It was spectacular. dinner in hostel was soup and bread and watched you tube video of interview. Did rest of washing.
Sat 22nd - packed big bags and took these by tram down to the station and left in left luggage. Then walked back along river and to a small park. Returned to Castro care for a drink. Walked via the post office which was shut so got some bread from market. Walked to the Irkutsk City museum. Cost 150 but it was all in Russian so looked interesting but didn't understand much. Then walked back into town centre and took photos of some states. After dropping bags back at hostel we walked to Central Park and then had dinner at Friendly burgers. After that got some food for trip on the train.
Likes about Irkutsk
- friendly tourist info and great sign posts everywhere
- green line tourist trail
- cool coffee shops (Lenin and Castro)
- awesome market
Dislike about Irkutsk
- whilst occasionally we had some helpful people mostly there are no pleasantries (please it than you)
- funny bus system
- Irkutsk museum had no English option :-(
