Geneva. a city of reformation in a pluralistic country that implements with integrity the ideals it holds dear. and you can feel it. I generally try to keep two fingers on a city's cultural pulse when I go, but living here, and working with Earle, Im coming to know this country in a way that one only can by living here. its very subtle. Upon first glance, as a tourist, Id roll through and deeply inhale this unbelievably fresh air, revel in the omnipotence of the perfect weather, the customarily kind regard, and the overwhelming presentation of culture. Id see a show, say merci alot and go sailing, windsurfing, hiking and biking through the waters and countryside. But living here, and necessarily studying this place, I'm beginning to understand why it is and where it all comes from.
The Wassenbergs have very full lives, yet they extend their home to me and Stephanie. They take short showers, lock the heat nozzle so we cant crank it up, eat very very healthy food, wash very large loads of laundry, turn all the lights off, etc etc etc. They rarely drive their cars and Jürgen rides his bike a very long distance to work everyday. Despite the abundance of cats here, the house is immaculate. Ballers rige the train, Im sayin, men and women you know work for one of the hundreds of Swiss Banks that line the streets, or the international government. Everyone takes public transportation. In Geneva, with a 20 dollar deposit, you can take a bike for 4 hours for free. Naturally, I stopped to ask how this was possible. The guy (a black french man) told me about how the country's various businesses contribute money to the government to make this possible, with the expressed intention to promote health and the physical exploration of Geneva in the fresh air. The place stands for democracy, fairness, stability, tolerance, pluralism, PUNCTUALITY, thrift, efficiency, transparancy, etc. people are very blunt! There is a feeling of isolation, that trickles down i suppose from the fact that the country has yet to join the EU, for fear of its centralizing tendancies among other things, and despite hosting the headquarters of nearly every one of its sectors, the Swiss only joined the UN in 2002. It still refuses however to join any alliance that will oblige it to take military action in the event of war, and will not send troops into battle unless it is threatened. Superimposed on the multiplicity of languages spoken, are divisions in ethnic, geographical and religious ones, which underscore the brilliance of and the need for complete integrity in its political system, which tangibly grows from the bottom. All of this is to say that, unlike the US, the political system doesnt dance alone here in its own sphere of reference. Its not like politics is over there, but one other societal sector. Everyone seems to take their citzenship seriously, and they reap the benefits.
It is bizarre though too because there is a constellation of very highly controversial organizations here, yet there are no protesters picketing outside the gates, or angry signs decrying the injustices of the WTO. Curious. Everything just works smoothly. it is a place of solutions not problems. and its great because its the solutions that I came here to study. But it requires a new eye towards cultural sensitivity. I can go to places, sense pain and inquire into its source. Here, the inverse is true. I notice the absence of pain, very very subtle social and cultural differences, and I inquire into why the problems dont exist.
Post Tenebras Lux. After the Darkness, Light. The place fought for its independence, won with a brilliant David vs Goliath story, and not only bask in the light internally, but they try to shed it around the world. I try to find my place. Hopefully, itll pan out to be more than an observer alone.
Every week is different. Every day is different. We're all sort of holding onto our seats to see whatll come next, and I know Im adapting to very different academic and social/living circumstances as much as possible. Aubonne is very small, and very far out. Last night, I spontaneously decided to go to a show I came upon at the Music Conservatoir in Genéve, a brilliant young pianist who played Scarlatti, Grieg, Chopin and Schumann with conviction and precision, and brought me to tears in the musty auditorium. but the taxi home from the nearest train station costs SF 90 for a 5-10 minute drive! I got a ride from some kids. but im sayin... We dont have regular internet access, are confronting the opportunity of doing research on an entirely new level--in field. So I try to search through the social, health, political programs available, to study why certain problems dont exist. This is where I am right now at least. I think all the time too about my Thesis project. We dont have classes per se. This week we were briefed at both the WTO and the Internation Centre for Migration and Health, the former by a member of the secretariat and the latter by a brilliant man, Dr. Carballo. He opened my eyes to the sociological trends resulting from poverty, war, natural catastrophe, as well as the more subtle trends like tourism and travel. He talked a bit about how bugs survive transatlantic plane trips, carrying with them all sorts of microbes and bacteria, conducive to disease. He talked about the women and children war refugees, and the new trends in disease post cold war, as well as the use of disease as a military weapon. Many of us made follow up appointmens with this natural teacher. The lady at the WTO basically spent most of her time defending the organization, rationalizing its actions. no one asked for her card... I wonder, to work for the org in an attempt to reform it from the inside out, or to work against it... That day was extremely provacative for me. The sense I got of the people who work in the WTO disturbed me highly--really smart people using their intelligence to reg the international system in accordnace with their economic interests at the crippling expence of the South. As I listened to her shed light on the circumstances of various cases posed, actious taken in the name of "self interest," I could only think of the short sightedness. silenced enlightened self interest. the southern countries try to appeal to the sensitivities of a Northern system that seems to operate from a different place... and all of course within conference room comfort. The chairs were sweet, and I could see alot of the kids in our program getting off on being at the WTO. I hope they were listening. really listening.
Then friday we went to the International Commitee for the Red Cross. The museam is awesome, really well done, laden with powerful symbolism. I never put it together before...but the red cross is the inversion of the Swiss flag...! the organization originated here by a brilliant visionary, and so they inverted the flag. Its become a bit of a religious symbol now. Muslim countries use the red Crescent and now Isreal has proposed the Red Crystal, a hollow diamond. interesting. it does embrace spiritual values. its manifested with religious undertones. But it continues nonetheless to unite rather than divide.
Ive met a nubmer of kids from Geneva--kids at U of Webster, one, Aude, from U of Geneva last night at the concert, a local snowboard buff named Vince, and a bunch of fellowship folk from Austrailia, London and France. Ill see them tonight, and every wednesday as theyve asked me to chair their weekly meeting. sweet:) Im slowly breaking this place in. Its dense!
This weekend is one of preparation. FRENCH. Study. the semester is about ta pick up quick I think. Tomorrow Im planning on going to Chamoneaux because I have a bit of a love affair with Mont Blanc! Im a sucker for the Alps, especially when I have ta travel by water to go. This weather continues to be pristine (!) and im all over it.
Next week, we explore in depth Mèdecins Sans Frontiers and Mèdecins du Monde. On Thursday we have a welcome dinner with all the homestay families. Marielle and David--my 21 year olds homestay cousin and her boyfriend are gonna come :) and Im so excited to meet the families Ive heard so many crazy stories about!! Fondue galore.
