It would be impossible for anyone visiting Cambodia to avoid witnessing the effects of the brutal Khmer Rouge regime on this beautiful country. It is everywhere. For us it began even before we passed into Cambodian territory, in Vietnam's south-eastern provinces, with a memorial dedicated to 130 slain villagers. In Cambodia, the consequences of over two decades of civil war are expressed not only in the disabled or limbless population or the sluggish developing economy, but also in the predominantly rural way of life. Phnom Penh, the capital city, was reduced to just 50,000 people during the Khmer Rouge regime - the inhabitants forced out into the country to be 'reformed' into a classless, agrarian society. Today, Phnom Penh has a population of 2 million, and although this is sizable (though certainly not by SE Asian standards!) it does not possess the frantic pace expected of a capital city. It doesn't take long to reach the rice paddies and fruit plantations which skirt the city and dominate the rest of the Cambodian landscape.
As with most cities, Phnom Penh has museums, monuments and other historical buildings - however, I can safely say I have never been to any more disturbing or confronting. The Tuol Sleng Musuem (or S21, to the Khmer Rouge) was horrifying, as our photos may depict. As too was the Killing Fields where we were literally walking on human bones and tattered cloth that continue to come to the surface during the rains...sobering...yep. A couple of quotes which stick in my mind seem to exemplify the philosophy adopted by Pol Pot and his team....
"to keep you is no gain, to lose you is no loss"
"it is better to be rid of 10 people by mistake than to let one guilty person go free"
..indeed, a book I have been reading has suggested they only wanted/needed 1 million people for the revolution, nevermind the others.
The international war crimes tribunal is currently trying Duch (the head of the S21 torture compound)in Phnom Penh, but you wouldn't know about it. Most people seem indifferent to it as, although much has changed and is undoubtedly better, there are still former Khmer Rouge personnel in high official positions today (even the prime minister!), plus those that have been charged are kept in fancy houses with no shortgae of food and other luxuries. Coupled with what seems to be a disproportionate distribution of wealth in the country, Cambodia has a long way to go. I suppose what is most unfathomable, and in fact heartening, is the average Cambodians attitude - they are truly happy, laid-back people with big hearts and smiles...it's incredible. For every person over the age of 40 I think, what have those eyes seen? those ears heard?
Well enough of the history lesson and doom and gloom, what to do in Phnom Penh when you are laden with such grisly truths? As always, a few stiff drinks managed to sort it out, and now that Nik Parkin had joined us (plus a Swiss and Aussie tag along - Jasmine and Iris) we managed to see the wilder side of Phnom Penh (well, at least Nik did! dirty rat) To the 'Heart of Darkness', a Phnom Penh institution in the club scene; we were briskly searched for weapons at the door and managed to get in despite the scruffy backpacker attire. I was no match for those Cambodian women! Full to the brim with tarts, prositutes, seedy western men, Cambodian boys bumping and grinding other Cambodian boys, local ladyboys and the capitals rich bodyguards keeping watch, fetching drinks and making sure it didn't go too far. Classic!
So the search was on for a hangover cure the following day and it was found in the local fruit markets - juicy mangoes, fleshy lychees, succulent rambutans and the cure of all cures, fresh coconut juice. All enjoyed at a leisurely pace around the city. Bliss.
to Siem Reap and the mother of all temples, minus the swiss and the aussie...
Pol Pot's sinister ambitions
