Crossing the Street in Vietnam

Toes on the edge of the red brick sidewalk, I look to the left. There’s no way. A river of motorbikes ten-deep buzzes along in front of me, its chorus of beeps and thrums overwhelming all my other senses. There’s no crosswalk here but it wouldn’t make a difference if there were.

There’s a hole-in-the-wall pho shop a half block away that’s had my name on it since the day I arrived in Hanoi, but I haven’t been able to sneak away from my travel group until now. I can see its seductive vapors rippling into the street and I’m practically drooling on my toes. After hoofing it two miles across town, this intersection is all that stands between me and a life-changing bowl of slurpy perfection. Unfortunately, there happens to be river of rubber and steel blocking my path.

I step off the curb and inch my way into the road hoping to attract some attention. For the first time since I’ve been in Asia, not a single eyeball turns my way.

A few feet to my right, a middle-aged Hanoian man saunters out ahead of me, nothing but a casual gaze toward the oncoming traffic. Peacefully and without pause, he weaves his way forward and in a few miraculous steps, he’s on the other side.

What. The. Hell?

I glance up at my destination and inhale deeply. I can taste the fish sauce tingling in the back of my throat. It’s time.

Noticing a brief break in the flow, I bound forward, bolting and weaving like it’s real-life Frogger. So far so good though. A few more jump-steps and I’ll be halfway across.

Oh my god. I’m almost halfway across.

My heart drops into my gut and my brain is suddenly overcome with the thought of my utterly exposed body. My reflexes stop me in my tracks. I meet the gaze of an oncoming biker whose eyes are wide. Unable to anticipate my next move, he swerves, forcing others to do the same. I cringe.

I’ve disrupted the flow and it’s up to me to correct it. I know what I need to do.

Eyes to the left, I begin to ease forward once again, this time steadily, organically. No longer waiting for a signal from the motorists, I assert myself – firmly, but respectfully. Finally, I allow myself to let go. No longer invisible, I’m in an intimate dance with my surroundings and for a moment, I feel almost graceful. Before I know it, red bricks are beneath my feet once again.

I blink back to reality, hardly believing the feat I’ve just accomplished. I turn to look behind me and there’s not a glance in my direction. As it should be.