I savour the taste of the Vietnamese coffee. It is nutty and sweet and strong but not bitter at all. I sip it slowly because every mouthful gives me brief moments of bountiful happiness. The dry iced coffee is also a welcome contradiction to the sticky heat of Vietnam. I never realised something so simple could bring me so much joy.
Every time I cross the road, whether it be in Saigon or in Nha Trang, I have to ignore my natural instinct to run full pelt across the road. The trick is to walk step by step, as if in slow motion, and stare at the manic scooter drivers so you acknowledge each other and they can dart around you, often at the very last minute and whilst beeping their horn wildly of course. But my body hates this slow dance because I have to ignore my natural instinct that screams "RUN! DEAR GOD RUN TO THE OTHER SIDE!!!" It's even worse when I'm tired, I forget which way to look and then I get confused, because let's face it - Vietnamese drivers drive on all sides of the road. Staying on one side is more of a guideline than a rule.
Nha Trang has been relaxing to say the least, I have enjoyed the luxury of not feeling pressured to sight-see and just spending time lying on the beach and swimming in the turquoise water that is actually coldish and refreshing. Of course I went to Vin Pearl, the giant water park on an island that I had to travel to via cable car - the longest cable car over water in the world. But Nha Trang is different to how I remembered it six years ago. It is a lot more touristy, a lot more developed and a lot more Russian. Did all the restaurants have Russian menus and Russian signs? Was I just not very perceptive six years ago? I don't think so. Surely I would have remembered the countless Russians who have come up to me thinking I am Russian and speaking only Russian to me. It doesn't bother me that it has changed, it's just different to how my memory recalls it. Maybe it was better to have left it as a glorious memory rather than relive it and have to accept it is so different. It also makes me realise I am different, I've changed so much since I last set foot here.
I have added to my extensive collection of beaded bracelets - mostly being pressured by forlorn women carrying them in their baskets and telling me how much effort they have put into making them. Almost everyone I meet - male or female - bears the mark of Asia - the beaded bracelets. I can't help but feel happy to be part of this community but also sad to be part of such a cliche.
