all that glitters is not gold

China is shaping up to be the next big thing. There is something about the pushiness of Chinese vendors, the questionable hygiene of street food, and the toilet doors that never seem to be locked despite the locks being in perfect working order that is strangely attractive. Nowhere in China seems to be an exception to this- not even Shanghai or Beijing, both of which are widely acknowledged as China’s most cosmopolitan cities. But I suppose one doesn’t go to China to experience Milan.

In the Forbidden City in Beijing, we were approached by a man offering to take us to the Great Wall of China the next day. These men selling tour packages are everywhere in the Forbidden City, and they share the same characteristics: they speak very quickly, offer you anything you ask for, push brochures at you and most importantly, push their phone numbers and promises at you. We were looking to go to the Great Wall anyway, so we picked up the hotel phone and called one of the numbers thrust at us. They promised a driver, a Mercedes, and all admission tickets paid for on the price they quoted over the phone.

Needless to say, the only thing that appeared the next morning was the driver. He was driving a Chinese-branded car, and he scoffed and told us the price quoted would pay for his services and the fuel and nothing else. The deal had seemed too good to be true. After making some calls to the tour agency, we were offered nothing more than apologies and a choice to go with the driver or to get out. Well, what is China without getting conned? All part of the experience!

The Great Wall stretched up and up… and up. Along the way, we met the Caucasian man with the Chinese girl he picked up on holiday, and many, many locals climbing with us. They were gracious- none of the usual pushing-and-shoving you get in other places in China. And then there were the vendors selling trinkets of all kinds. They engrave medals for you that state that you have climbed the Wall. For the price of 50 RMB (negotiable!), you get your pick of a gold, silver or bronze medal.

And of course, you don’t leave Beijing without tasting Peking duck. It lived up to its hype. The waiters cut the duck for you, then provide you with the accompaniments- pancakes, spring onions, and sweet bean sauce. The skin was crispy and the roasted meat succulent. Wrap that all up and take the first bite… nothing short of a religious experience. Go to “Quan Ju De”- they have a branch along the Forbidden City stretch. It is good.

Beijing is a mix of old and new- you get the feeling that the government decided to transform the place into a city and everyone else is struggling to catch up. Go to Beijing before they close up this gap; go before Beijing becomes yet another city.