Travel Bug

In five months I crossed four borders in Southeast Asia on foot. For my last journey before returning home, I decided to splurge on a flight to India.

As I waited to board my flight, a young Indian couple took one look at my ring-less fingers and asked me if I was planning to travel through India alone. 'Yes,' I replied. “You are a brave woman,” they told me.

While listening to Kanye West's song on my iPod, “What doesn't kill you makes you stronger,” I began my trek. I traveled by third class train, clutching my backpack in any corner I could find. As dirty and androgynous as I felt, I was still gawked at by men who would make inappropriate gestures in my direction. The voices from the airplane still resonated: ‘you are a brave woman.’

Day by day, I got angrier. I adopted a mean icy expression that I directed towards every man that dared step in my path. At night, I spent my time journaling from my hostel bed. I had promised myself I wouldn't go out after dark.

As my travel budget ran low and it was soon time to go home, I hopped on a bus to visit Jama Masjid, a beautiful mosque outside New Delhi.

I scowled 'no' to every guide that tried to share the mosque’s history with me. As I walked underneath the arches, I felt as if I was being followed. And I was. I turned around to find a young boy at my heels. How harmless could he be? I thought. I kept walking and he kept up behind me. He told me his name was Rakesh and that today was his 13th birthday. It was nice to finally talk with someone.

Rakesh invited me to his home for his birthday celebration and to meet his family. I knew the likelihood of getting back to my hotel before dark was slim. What trap could I be walking into? Rakesh seemed so excited that I couldn’t disappoint him. I took my chances.

Rakesh lived in a one-bedroom shack with mud floors. His mother greeted me as if we were childhood friends. His sister was making Roti, a treat for the occasion. Rakesh and his siblings led me to their rooftop where we ate, shared stories, and laughed until the sun had set.

In the days before I left, Rakesh became my tour guide, and my friend. He took me to the market to try the best samosas, to a kids’ football match, and even to explore hidden ruins in the countryside.

After living in fear for weeks, thirteen-year-old Rakesh not only restored my faith in the Indian culture, but also taught me that its okay to take a chance and stay out after dark.