Wow, the end of the first 3 weeks of my journey and the end of my 29th year.
It’s funny really, it feels like I’m still at school and I’m behind on my homework. I’m even getting told off by teachers! Finally, I have has the time to sit down and go through everything from the beginning, which is ironic really as I don’t feel like I’ve achieved that much.
I did let mum and dad come to the airport in the end. I was feeling strong and did all of my crying before we left the house, so I wasn’t the emotional wreck, that I was (and you were all) expecting. I got very excited when I got to the desk and asked if there was any chance of an upgrade, and she smiled in an ‘actually there might just be’ kind of way. When she then asked me where my visa was, my heart sank especially when she followed that with we can’t let you book in until you have a visa (which I wouldn’t get at that notice) or an outward bound flight (which I didn’t want as I didn’t know where I was going after BKK). Somehow it was decided that they would let me fly and that they would give me the upgrade, so I was all excited again. Yay!
My journey got even more exciting when I ended up standing next to Peter Crouch in the queue for the x-ray machines. He wasn’t there long, but long enough for quick chat.
Forgive me if I’m rambling.
The flight was great. Not in first class, but the extra legroom was much appreciated. I was worried about the visa situation, as I have seen Thai immigration officials and for very short men they can be rather intimidating. Thankfully it wasn’t a problem. I went through immigration without any problems and she didn’t even speak to me - still no bedside manner!
Found the taxis (for those of you who haven’t been here these are very brightly painted, normally in pink or yellow and green) and had my first proper Thai experience in 12 years! The taxi driver that was there, said the meters were not working (best way to con unsuspecting tourists with ridiculous prices) I stood and listened to a taxi driver trying to charge 4 gorgeous Spanish lads thousands of baht to go somewhere just down the road. Ridiculous. He also tried to charge me 800baht for a 250/300B journey. I was very proud of myself when I went to walk away and he lowered his price a bit, I told him it was too expensive – in Thai – and then tried to walk away again. I noticed the Spanish guys watching me in admiration as I got the price down to 300B and told them, that he was trying to con them. Big confidence boost.
I had forgotten what it was like to be in a Thai taxi. No seatbelts (I can’t believe I actually looked for one!), driver on his mobile, weaving in and out of lanes of bumper to bumper traffic, motorbikes and Tuk Tuks shooting down the middle of lanes and being cut off. It took me about 20 minutes to actually open my eyes, which wasn’t really a problem as I had no idea where I was going. Neither it seems did my taxi driver! We ended up going in a huge loop which was almost as long as the actual journey should have been. So I was glad I was not on the meter, it would have cost me a fortune!
This was when the inevitable finally happened. Firstly my hair went frizzy and then I started speaking pigeon English with a dodgy Thai accent and to beat that I spoke very loudly. As if that was actually going to help. What an idiot!
I arrived at Jane and David’s apartment, just outside of central Bangkok. Jane Monks was my first teacher at Bangkok Patana School over 18 years ago (which was also their first year in Thailand) and David taught in year 4. Mum got a job at the school, teaching art with his year group. While we were still in BKK they had a little girl called Alice, who is now 15 - that makes me feel old - and 7 years ago they adopted a beautiful Thai girl, called Jasmine.
That night I was taken for my first proper Thai green curry in 12 years and it was just as I had imagined it would be. So good!!! Didn’t sleep too well that night as I kept waking up every 20 minutes thinking it was the morning. Long night!
Jane and David were working the next day, so I was given some ideas of places to go, complimentary bus times, taxi directions and a sky train card so I could get around easily. The next day I caught the 10:00 complimentary bus to Central City (huge American style mall) which I then realised, opened at 11. I decided to get some breakfast and hung around for a while but gave up and took another horrifying taxi ride to the sky train station. Obviously I had no idea where we were going so I was paranoid that he was taking me the wrong way, or the long way round, to bump up the meter cost. When I got there (without having being ripped off) I was pleasantly surprised to see how organised and logical the station was. Clearly not designed by a Thai.
I had a lovely day out in Bangkok, travelling around on the sky train (which makes BKK so much easier) visiting the big malls and some of the old places which we used to go to. It was all a little overwhelming, noisy, dirty, smelly, busy and hot. Just as I remember – so good to be back.
The next day I decided to go for it and get to the Khao San road (where all the backpackers stay) this is on the other side of BKK, by the river. To get there I had to get a taxi to the sky train, travel almost to the end of the line and then change trains and travel down the other line. Then I had to get a taxi from there. This is where it all went wrong. I struggled to get a taxi and when I finally did, I managed to get myself another idiot! I had a map with me (Would recommend the Nancy Chandler map to everyone who ever comes to Thailand – brilliant) so I could check up on the taxi driver. I started to have my suspicions about his knowledge of BKK pretty early on, when he turned down a road that was going in the wrong direction. I explained that away as being due to one-way systems, which do happen over here, however when we went past the Snake Venom hospital, Snake Farm and Lumpini Park I knew he had no idea where he was going. I even kept saying Khao San and I showed him the map. In the end, I worked out that I was worse off than I had been when I changed sky trains! I got out and paid him – which I shouldn’t have done and went up the sky train bridge to work out where I was.
Travelling here I met a lovely Thai man who could clearly see that I was lost he offered his help and looked at my map pointing out where I was, what road I needed to go down and where to catch a cab to keep the cost down. He even suggested the Tourist Information Centre which would be able to help me find a nice place to stay and give me some ideas on the best ways to get out of the country to renew my visa (has to be done every 30 days, so mine is due on the 2nd Nov). He was very kind and I wasn’t sure what to do, as I still distrusted everyone I met, which I was ashamed of as the majority of Thai people are kind, helpful and honest. He had told me that it would cost 20B to get a tuk tuk to the Tourist Information Centre and I could catch them over there – obviously I’m pointing now but you can’t see – I went down there trying to work out what to do and notice him watching me to check I was going the right way. I went round the corner and a man jumped out, “You want tuk?” he said. (You have to say this with funny clipped Thai accent) I stammered uh yes please to the… the… uh… Tourist Information Centre? He agreed to the 20B which I had been told. So, ok maybe this was going to work. I’ve been to tourist information centres in France, they’ve always been very helpful and had lots of good advice and I was looking forward to going somewhere air-conditioned, possibly with a complimentary glass of water. When we pulled up I realised I was not going to get the help I needed.
So I went in and was shepherded to a desk by a short angry looking Thai woman, possibly Thai/Chinese - by the way she was talking/shouting at me!
“Where you wana stay?” She demanded, before I’d even sat down.
“Well I was after some information really.”
“Where you wana stay!!?” Shouting louder now.
“On the Khao San Road?” Starting to panic now, she was clearly not a lady to mess with.
“How much you wana pay?”
“I don’t know,” I said very calmly, as that was clearly the reason I was there. To find that out!!! Daft bat! “How much are the rooms?”
“2000 baht,” She barked. I knew that was too expensive and pulled a confused/stop trying to rip me off, kind of face. “What you wana pay?”
“About 500-700 baht?”
“No way. 2000 baht, cheapest!” And with that she stood up (clearly the conversation was over) and she pushed me out of the office.
Needless to say I was a little… angry… but I controlled myself and got in the Tuk Tuk - which was strangely still there waiting for me. He asked me if I wanted to go back and at that point I realized that I had been conned. I sat and stewed in back of the Tuk Tuk, angry at them for ripping me off (with the fairs, there and back) but mainly angry at myself for falling for the trick. I was expecting to get back and see the ‘nice’ man standing there to check it had worked. I was a little surprised to see that he wasn’t there, when we got back and then I felt bad… until I walked into him just round the corner!
After that I got on the sky train and headed homeward. It was about 3 by this point and I hadn’t eaten so I decided to go to my favourite Thai restaurant in BKK – Cabbages and Condoms, for some comfort food. This worked and on the way back I thought about my little trauma and how I had been ripped off. They took me for 40baht… 40baht… which I then realised is only ₤1 or a little less actually! Could have been worse.
On Friday I went back to Patana (the school I used to go to), to have a look around and see some of the teachers that were still there.
You should know before you really look at the pictures, that 18 years ago when this school was still ‘small’ - it was huge – bigger that most private schools in the UK. By the time we left 4 years later it had grown to at least twice the size. There aren’t really words to describe it now. It is GINORMIC and they still seem to be adding to it. Have a look on the internet for Bangkok Patana School and you will get an idea of what I am talking about. http://www.patana.ac.th/about_campus.asp
I have attached a couple of pictures that I took when I was there. (See also Gallery – Patana School)
WBJS has one ICT suite, like most schools (if they are lucky); possibly a small pool; a gym/hall or maybe both (which is also where everyone eats); maybe other rooms to use for independent learning. Did I mention that in Primary at Patana, that each year group has its own ICT suite and large quiet area? Not to mention the school having 3 pools (one of which is Olympic sized); 3 full size and 2 smaller football pitches; a sports hall with 2 basket ball courts; 12 tennis courts; squash courts, 2 hard courts; a running track, large auditorium with huge stage, drama cube??, performing arts building….. the list goes on. Have a look at the web site.
On the Saturday morning I went back to school and joined in with an Early Years training course. Very interesting. In the afternoon I visited Katie Chirathivat, my best friend from Patana school. She has 2 children now, a beautiful little girl called Ayla who is 3 and Jamie who is about 3 or 4 months old now. It's funny to think of us as being old enough to have families of our own. I still remember dressing up and acting out parts of Matilda, with Katie and Charlotte, for an English project.
On Sunday I went with Jane to Chatuchak the weekend market. I always remembered going there as a child with mum, dad and Greg. Always very hot, noisy and busy but great fun. We always used to stop for a drink and if we couldn't finish it, it would be put into a bag and you drank it with a straw (you weren't allowed to take the bottles away as they got money for them). Greg never used to drink his and would take it away in a bag with two elastic bands round the top to attach it to his ears. He would then construct a complicated network of straws to get it from the bag and into his mouth without him having to use his hands. Every time we went the design became more and more elaborate.
I didn't partake in the hands free drinking this time but it was still fun. The market is huge and has areas which contain different things – Thai handicrafts, wood carvings, pottery and kitchen ware, fashion, food (real and fake),
arts and craft materials, antiques (genuine fakes) and animals and fish. In fact you can pretty much get everything you could possibly imagine there. The food areas are particularly interesting. Everything laid out ready to be cooked, exactly the way you want it. I'm pretty adventurous with my food but I didn't eat there!
On Monday I went to play Mah Jong at the British Club. This is something that Mum and most expat wives do when they live in BKK. It's either Mah Jong or Bridge. I met Jane Rodgers, Katrina's mum (Katrina was a really good friend from Patana) at one of the sky train stops and we went to the Club, played Mah Jong and then had a lovely lunch at the pool bar with some other friends and Pauline Spiers who also lived in BKK when we did. After lunch we then went back to Jane's apartment and watched Strictly Come Dancing – obviously!
The following day I went with Jane to visit Elsie Evans art studio. Mum used to go for art classes with Elsie when we lived in BKK, but I had never met her before. It wasn't long before Elsie got me involved and had me doing a charcoal portrait of a little salt selling man, who she pulled in off the street with his salt trolley. He was there for a class of 3 people - one of whom was the prime ministers nephew – so I just joined in. He was paid 500baht to sit there for about 3 hours, which was probably more money than he would have got in a month for selling his bags of salt.
On Wednesday I went with Pauline, as my guide, to Khao San Road – and I actually got there! This time I took the sky train to the river and then with Pauline's guidance caught the river taxi all the way down to Khao San. It was a nice and relaxing way to travel and funny seeing all of the old hotels we used to visit for a Sunday buffet lunch. Passing the Shangri La made my stomach rumble for all of the smoked salmon, lobster and prawns that we used to consume, en mass! The river taxis are fun. You have to be quick to get on and off, as they don't really stop. You also have to be careful not to bump into a monk (females can't touch them or they have to go into a period of cleansing). They actually have special places to stand and marked seats, just for them. On the way down the river you pass many interesting sights, temples and the Grand Palace.
My first visit to Khao San was exciting and I was fully prepared to move there – out of the beautiful apartment and into the hubbub of Khao San living. We looked round some of the hostels, ranging in price from about £5 a night to £20 plus and checked out some of the restaurants and market stalls. It is a weird place really, as it is not really Bangkok – it could be anywhere in the world. Just full of backpackers, drunk or well on there way to it.
The following Saturday I went with Jane, David, Alice and Jasmine to Ko Samet. Our juorney was a little wet and windy but the weather imporved not long after we got there.
We were there for 5 days and stayed in a beautiful Hotel set on a lovely beach.
The food was fantastic, you could get fresh fruit and all sorts of dishes cooked by the men and women on the beach and also the best foot massages.
On our first night (also Jane's Birthday) we went down the beach to a half moon party, where we had drinks and watched the fire dancers.
They played jump rope (which was on fire) and all of the drunk party-goers joined in – one girl had a light flowing dress on, which we all thought was going to go up in flames.
While we were away we all got the impression that we were being followed or watched. Towards the end of our time there our observer introduced himself to us.
His name was Khun (Mr) Orange
and he had recently had a communication from a brother he didn't even know he had. His brother was living in the UK and working for an evil woman who made him work in the kitchen. He had tried to escape many times, to find help, but had been unsuccessful. He had found his brother Khun Orange, in order to try to get MY help.
He joined us for the evening and decide that he would come traveling with me as a way to get to the UK to help his brother.
On our last night we went down to a different beach and had dinner in a restaurant which had these fire dancers. One was 10 and the other about 13 - they were very good.
We returned to BKK on the 21st and had a celebration for my Birthday. (The day after, Alice was going away on her DofE; Jane, David and Jasmine were going away again before school started again and I was gong to Khao San.) We got a takeaway and watched a film then there was surprise bubbly, cake and presents for me. It was a lovely way to celebrate my Birthday – especially as my actual Bday was a disaster!
I was sick and on the toilet most of the night and by the time everyone had woken up in the morning I was very weak. I managed to crawl to the door, open it and call for help. Seriously not joking – David found me on the floor and went to get a sugary drink for me, which I then threw up all over myself (very dignified!!! NOT!!!). I then spent my birthday and the next day recovering and being looked after by Jane and David – who did not go away. Feel pretty bad about that. Thank you so much guys.
On Sunday 24th after 3 weeks ( I was only going to be at the apartment for 3 or 4 days) I finally moved to Khao San Road.
I stayed in a place called D&D Inn which was recommended by Greg. Really nice place with a swimming pool and bar/restaurant on the roof. My room was nice and not too expensive but at the same time not one of the cheapest in the area.
That evening I went out to find food and hopefully someone to talk to. I found a lively looking restaurant and saw a girl siting by herself. I took the table in front of hers, thinking as I sat down 'I think that's her from Blue Peter'. It turned out that it wasn't (her name was Humeira) – but she knew exactly who I meant. We got talking and we both ate, then a bloke she had met (Ollie) the day before turned up, and we all went for a drink. It was a great night and many buckets of vodka and coke were consumed. We also met a couple from Canada and we all went up to the roof of Ollie's hotel to have more drinks. I think it was about... I don't know what time it was actually. But it was late or very early!
I spent the next day with them on Khao San Road. We had massages and lunch and hid from the rain by the pool. In the evening Ollie moved on to Krabi and Humeira had her flight back to the UK. Ollie gave me the details of a great Welsh guy called Steve, who worked at a tourist centre in BKK and would be able to book up all of my Thailand activities (he had also done Ollies). So the next morning I went to see him.
I had called before to get directions and had mentioned his name and when I arrived I found out that they had called him into the office for me, apparently he had only just got in form a particularly good night out. My concerns about Steve grew as he talked about his nights out and the different ways that he finds to have a extra good time! He mentioned all sorts of places where I could find such things and people to look for. It didn't take too long for me to put him straight and then he actually came up with some good places to go and things to do – that would suit me. In Ko Phangan (my 1st stop) I was booked in to do my EFR (Emergency First Aid) and Dive Rescue course; I would do a 4 island tour and kayak adventure in Krabi, while I stayed in his hotel and then I would move on to stay on beautiful tropical islands where I could swim, dive, sun bathe and read. I would end my 37 day trip in Cambodia just before meeting Mum and Dad.
I left for my trip 2 days later on the 28th.