Some part of my pure Filipino blood descended from my forefathers --- the Panay-Bukidnons. They are known to be the indigenous people of Panay island in the Philippines. Hence, when the thought of going back to them came across my mind, it never left. I took hold of it and asked a friend of mine, JC, to film it.
It took us two hours from Iloilo City to reach the far-flung town of Calinog, Iloilo. We took our lunch at around 10:30 am in a nearby shack. We were there for the first time.
We strolled around the place until we found the Police station. We asked for relevant information and got referred to certain individuals that could help us. We shot some scenes in front of the town hall while waiting for the Habal-Habal to come along. It is our term for a motorbike trekking in the mountains.
From the town proper, we travelled for 45 minutes to reach Balay-Tulun-an where the Panay-Bukidnons reside. Since it was raining, the rough road up to the mountains was muddy. More to it, the rocks were slippery and water gushed down. It was a bumpy ride with lots of breath-taking moments.
Alongside were giant rocks and steep cliffs on the other side. We were going up and up and up. But the scenic view of the lowlands from atop was awe-inspiring. There were towering century-old trees shading the rich flora of the forests. The cold breeze was embracing and made me feel how was it to be back home.
Getting dirty with the mud was the most exciting part. We glided in the slopes and climbed hills through rocky steps. But the life-changing experience had not started yet until I finally met the Panay-Bukidnons.
Welcoming us was Rodolfo Caballero, also known as 'Sandigan'. He was the cultural consultant of the tribe. We exchanged few greetings and immediately, he gathered the members. In an instant, they were wearing their red-dominated and embroidered ethnic costumes.
As Sandigan told, the name Panay-Bukidnon came from two Hiligaynon words --- Panay and Bukidnon. Panay refers to Panay island where they originated and Bukidnon refers to the local natives in the mountainous area of the island. They have their own culture and customary law. They also have their own political system lead by their tribe masters.
On the other hand, their epic chant 'Sugidanun' is considered to be one of the longest epic written. If sung, it will take two days and two nights for the chanter to finish it. Federico Caballero also known as 'Tuohan'was awarded as Philippines GAMABA (Gawad Manlilikha ng Bayan)awardee way back in 2000 for his excellence in epic chanting.
They are also well-known of their embroidery called 'Panubok'. The designs are indigenous patterned to different animals in the locality. The designs are even featured to inspire fashion shows in the Philippines. Several prominent people buy their design because of its ethnicity and distinction.
Another thing which caught my attention was their Binukot or their well-kept maiden. Rosetta Caballero, 66, is the last Binukot in their tribe. She was well-kept in a bamboo shack since she was two years old. She was not allowed to mingle with other children. She was not allowed to do household chores. She was even helped when eating. She was not allowed to touch the ground when attending engagements. She was not able to attend school. She was the jewel of the tribe.
When she reached 16, she was sold by her parents for 3, 0000 Philippine pesos to one of the brothers of Sandigan. She ended it. Now, the present generation enjoys the opportunity to study and pursue their dreams rather than being well-kept.
Panay-Bukidnon is very famous for their Binanog dance. It is a courtship dance in which the dancers imitate the actions of a hawk. The music is led by an agong ensemble which is played by the tribe members. The dancers make use of long handkerchiefs to manifest their motives with their partners.
In the course time, they were able to preserve their rich culture. Every Saturday, they teach their children of their culture in the GAMABA training center making sure that their noble stories will surpass the test of time.
Indeed, the day I went back to my roots was life-changing. It felt like home. I know that some of the blood running through my veins was passed on from the Panay-Bukidnons. Wherever I go, I know that Panay-Bukidnon will always welcome me home.
