I was in Accra for less
than a week when I attended my first funeral. I didn't know the man,
supposedly he was the great-uncle of my country program director,
although who really knows the relation. She introduced me to her
“grandfather” telling me that many of the people at the 300+
person funeral were her grandparents so I'm not confident in the
actual relation.
Anyhow, I was advised to
wear either black or white to the ceremony, and since it was an
occasion of mourning, I opted for black. When I got there, however,
it was immediately clear that I would have stood out less donning a
wedding dress.
What I was not told was
that if somebody has died after the age of 70 it is considered a
celebration and those attending the funeral wear white. Only if the
deceased has died before 70 do people dare wear black. Lisa, another
volunteer in my program was wearing a red outfit she had made in
Ghana having been told it was funeral cloth. Again, she was not
told that was in the Ashanti tradition, not the Ewe. So although
Lisa and I stuck out like sore thumbs, I must admit that I spent a
lot of my time admiring everyone else's wear. I would say that 80%
of the men and women were wearing clothes made out of identical
cloth; however, since it was all custom made I would see a row of
women all wearing dress cut from the same cloth, but all in different
styles. It was pretty magnificent.
(On a tangential note: I
have recently learned that because western attire has become so much
the norm in Ghana, many people make sure to wear their African style
clothing on Fridays. Inspired, I'm getting a dress made today.
Don't laugh.)
But back to the funeral.
All in all, the event was a very interesting experience, and
something Ghanians are known for. First of all, the man who died did
so in January. Let me repeat, JANUARY! I guess Ghanian funerals can
happen anywhere between two months and a year after the actual death,
so this funeral was “early.” You should have seen the body too –
it was an open casket. The man was still in good shape, just very
waxy looking. Too much detail?
Anyhow, it wasn't the
animated soulful church singing that surprised me next, but the conga
line the relatives started smack in the middle of the service. Even
more peculiar was at the reception afterwards, where not only were
their traditional drummers (not so strange), but two kids who came
out to do African dance in HULA skirts! You know I couldn't make
that up.
In any case, there is a
brief introduction to the vibrancy that often characterizes Ghanians
and all that they do. I actually went to church with my landlady
today and that was just as colorful and energetic of an experience.
Singing, dancing, and even jumping, there was Preacher R. Kelly and
Pastor Brian McKnight – everyone's voices were incredible - and
only magnified by the fact that it was filled with 2,000-2,500
God-fearing Ghanians singing and dancing right along with them. I'm
sure if synagogue was like that it would have a 70% attendance rate
too :)
Ah but yes, Ghanians do
love God and make sure to let it known, as a good percentage of all
stores have God, Jesus or Jehova in the name. So far I've seen In
Jesus' Blood Rice and Beans, God is Great Metal Works, the Jesus
Connection bus stop, and my favorite, which is listed down below.
There are even better ones too, I just cant remember them all.
Food-wise, its all eating
with your hands here and that goes for everything. A very typical
meal is a groundnut (peanut) and fish/chicken soup with a piece of
dough either made of mashed up cassava, maize or plantains. That's
what my co-workers have for lunch and there are no utensils involved.
Just stick the dough in the soup (and make sure you get your whole
hand in there!), then they take the bony fish out (of course, with
your hands), spit the skeleton out, and back to the dough it is.
Although I tend to bring my own food, they always get a good kick out
of me eating Ghanian grub. I'm actually attending my first Ghanian
seder this week in celebration of Passover. It's being hosted by my
American friend Lisa, but since she's invited Ghanians and they wont
eat anything other than their local cuisine, fufu, banku, and
keliweli will make up the so-not-kosher menu. Of course, I'll be
doing my best to stick with it :)
That's about all for now,
but I want to end with my top sights/encounters of my first 10 days
in Ghana:
Top Sights:
Sign advertising
circumcision services with the drawing of a baby holding a pair of
scissors and a bloody you-know-where...except that there is nothing
there, as it appears as though he has been castrated rather than
circumcised.
Old woman using a
cane carrying a suitcase on her head.
I Will Make it in
Jesus' Name Chicken and Rice
Favorite Exchanges:
Man on street: “Hey
Obruni (light skinned person), give me money!” Me: “Hey Obibini
(black man), give ME money!” Everyone around smiled.
Me: “Can I buy
chicken at the Koala Supermarket?” Program Director: “Chicken
that's already dead? Yes, you can buy it there.”
Man in my building
who goes by Grandpa: “You are from the United States? That has 54
countries.” Me: “Yes, it has 50 states.” Grandpa: “Ahh, 52
countries in America?” Me: “50 states” (another man also yells
“States! States”) Grandpa: “Okay, 54 states.” Me: (sigh)
“Yes grandpa, 54 states.”
