Fiona's travels

Ethiopia is Africa's second most populous country at 75 million for a country about the size of France and Spain combined.  Religion plays a huge role in local life, with a fairly even split of about 40% Muslim and 40% Ethiopian Orthodox Christians (one of the oldest Christian sects in the world), with the remaining such as Rastafarians who regarded the last emperor Haile Selassie as their God.
 
The tour started in the capital of Addis Ababa, at about 2500m ASL it is the 3rd highest capital in the world.  A busy, bustling city, but only 10 minutes from the centre, there are women carrying stacks of Eucalyptus on their backs to supplement their income, and donkeys or sheep running up and down the streets.  Bit of sight seeing and then off to Lalibela on a 50 seater plane....
 
Lalibela has a population of only about 20,000, so its small but rapidly increasing in size due to the increase in tourism.  Lalibela is famous for the 11 rock churches built in the 12th century by King Lalibela.  They are cut out of the rock, simple inside, in the shape of a cross, but unfortunately filled with fleas in the carpets from the animals, holy or not - they pack a punch and remained with me for the rest of my time in Ethiopia!!!  We did a lovely hike up the hill to a monastery up at 3100m, through small round wood huts with a thatched roof, through fields of beans/peas or grains, stopping for some Thyme Tea which is a local speciality.  Constant hassle from teenagers trying to get you to buy books or support them through school - unfortunately not all of it is legit.
 
Another short flight on to Gonder, which was the capital of Ethiopia in the 17th and 19th centuries, with a castle area built over time by various past emperors.  This was our base before the trek or to come back to afterwards.
 
The Simien Mountains are highlands created by selective erosion through volcanic rock, creating 1500m escarpments and valley floors.  The national park in the area was set up initially to conserve some endemic species including Gelada Baboons, Simien Fox and Walia Ibex (a wild goat), which are unfortunately now in the list of World Heritage Sites in Danger due to population declines.  The highlands range from the lower slopes of cultivation and grazing, to regions of moorland, giant heathers, and up to the higher slopes of Red Hot Poker plants and Giant Lobelia.
 
The trek
The trek was 8 days long, supported by a full crew of mule helpers, mules to carry all the kit and equipment, camp assistants, a cook, guide, scouts to walk with us and keep us safe (even though we were more at risk of being shot in the head by their 1940s loaded guns!) and an emergency mule at the back to rescue any ill or hurt people!  We trekked a total of 120kms roughly, each day with different scenery and viewpoints, and each day pretty hard not always due to the distance covered, but due to the elevations walked as well as altitude factored in.  Some days, we would walk 10 hours, ascend 900m in one go and descend maybe 500m.  For the summit attempt of Ras Deshen, we walked for 10 hours, up from 3200m ASL to the top at 4543m and then back down again to camp.  Fabulous scenery each day, lots of little villages, people and animals but quite exhausting, especially when you're camping and don't get a proper nights sleep!  Some nights were below freezing and we quite often had hail!!  Back to Gonder at the end for a much needed shower and the chance to sit down on a loo again!!
 
The groups were fantastic, which was very lucky as there were many logistical nightmares, not only because its an African country and things operate differently, but also because our local agent was hopeless, so I did more than my jobs worth!!  The final tour was a total nightmare as there were East African Leaders' meetings being held in Ethiopia so all the flights were booked up and we had to change hotels at the last minute too.  Chaos, but didn't get in the way of the enjoyment of the group.  So that's it, final tour and final tour for me as a tour leader, I'm hanging up my boots!!