Before I embarked on a solo trip to Morocco, around Easter this year I was loaded with tonnes of safety information, given to me by friends and other travellers. I must admit that many people were really surprised to hear I was about to go there on my own and travel around with the locals. Some said that it's not a safe country for single female. One, male friend even told me that I would be 'eaten alive' by the Moroccan men, who love white girls ! I was advised to watch my back and all my possessions at all times. Never to go into narrow alleyways of Medina (old, walled town) by myself and never to accept the first price of goods, sold by the street merchants. I was told to be tough, look confident and haggle with everyone!
With all that in mind I left for my 2 weeks adventure...slightly petrified of what I was about to experience...
Here are some main points I’d like to make:
- Women who travel on their own will most certainly receive a lot of unwanted attention. It is a Moroccan culture to flirt openly and stop women on the streets, asking them out and commenting on their appearances. However, I have not experienced any harassment on any level and have not feel threatened.
- It is very likely that you will be taken for a ride, purchasing goods or even experience, such as Hammam (Moroccan bath houses). There are two types of price lists: one for Moroccans and one for tourists with money. Foreigners, especially white, are seen as money milking cows and also treated that way. You would pay several times the price and often wonder how come things, i.e cup of coffee can cost more than the one in American Starbucs?!? I went to a really nice looking cafe in Essaouira and ordered cup of green tea. When it came to paying I was asked to pay equivalent to £4.50...I thought they were joking but then I was shown the ‘English’ menu and the price was clear. In comparison cup of tea in most places costed me, equivalent to £1.
- Buying goods from the street sellers or Bazaars, you will have to show some good haggling skills, to bring the price down from extremely pricey to just about tolerably overpriced. The rule of thumb is: whatever the asking price is, you offer third of it and settle somewhere in the middle. That is,if you cannot be asked to haggle to the last drop of blood. Moroccans like haggling and they like tourists who are not easily persuaded by the asking price. The more you stick to what you are willing to pay, the more likely you get a good deal. It can be very tiring and annoying at times but once you look at it with some humour, you will save yourself some money in the long run. Shop keepers would try all the tricks in their books to sell you goods. They will say things, like: other tourist pay this price, but for you lovely lady/gentleman I will make an exemption...or ‘You are my first customer today, so I will make you a good deal’. They’ll talk over you, with the speed of light and all for the same reason- to confuse you and trick you to buy things you didn’t even wanted !
I had this hilarious experience in the old Souk in the Marrakesh’ Medina, where I was lured to this herbalist/chemist quarters and ushered to the back room, where 4 ladies in white jackets surrounded me like bees sword, buzzing all about their products in glass jars. They sat me on the bench and started pulling things to show me; rubbing things on my hands, under my nose and even pulling my top half way down my shoulders, giving me some massage I did not ask for. After the whole show I was so confused and my head was spinning from the speed at which it all was presented to me, I was taught to buy 2 oils and pay for my massage and all for the price of 3 days worth of good meals!! I looked in my purse and all the cash I had was half of what they were asking for. I gave them all I had and said I have no more money and won’t pay anymore. Still, they were happy to take all I had and let me go with perfectly practiced smiles. This just get to show that no matter what price they’re asking for, if you pay the 3rd you still gave them good earnings.
I know some people may say that in spite of the asking price, the goods are still fairly cheap, compaired with their home country prices. However, that is not my point of view. Morocco is generally very cheap and therefore their lifestyle is much different to ours. If typical Moroccan can eat a good meal in a restaurant for £8 and drink nice coffee for £1, the goods prices should reflect their standard of living and the economy. Say, they make pottery, which costed £1 to make and another £3 in labour, I can't justify paying £30 for it, just because I am a foreign tourist and therefore am able to afford it. That's not the case...I went to Morooco, because it appealed to me for it's simplicity and being a cheap travel destination. If I was to pay the same prices as back in my home country, I would hesitate to go to Morocco.
The whole philosophy of Moroccan merchants is to rip rourists off their money, trying whatever it takes to sell them very overpriced goods!
Well, in my humble opinion, if that carrys on, in a rather intimidating and tiring manner of constant hassling, well then tourism in Morocco will definitely decrease and with it, the country's main source of income.
