Okay, so I felt that my one day in Palestine deserved a seperate post. When I told my parents that I was going to Israel mum of course freaked. But I calmed her saying I wouldn't go if I didn't think I was safe. I mean Jerusalem yes, but the West Bank and Gaza, hell no. Well, 24hrs into my time in Israel I had a tour booked for Hebron in the West Bank. Honestly one of the most interesting and best days I have had on my trip! Meeting the Palestinian guide in Bethlehem, the drive to Hebron was enlightening. Various zones are established in Palestine. A-under Palestinian control, no Israelis. B-Israeli control, all allowed. C-Israeli control, no Palestinians. Signs declaring no entry to Israelis - danger to lives, certainly sober you up to the dangerous situation.
Israeli control seems to be total. Hebron almost seems like a ghost town in parts. More than 1800 shops and livelihoods have been destroyed. The establishment of non-Palestinian streets has forced countless shops and homes to be shut from the front. Now, in order to get into their homes, many are forced to enter through back windows using ladders. While the West Bank, and especially Hebron, has a reputation for breeding suicide bombers this in no way reflects the general populace. Speaking to some of the locals really enhances the situation. Shop owners are indignant, beggars have bullet wounds, kids are learning from the wrong examples. All of this just highlights the complexities that the Israeli/Palestinian conflict encompass. It doesn't seem like there are any definitive rights or wrongs, let alone solutions.
The Israeli presence is definitely felt when walking the streets. At one point, we were walking through a Palestinian cemetery (obviously a Palestinian only area) and I guess from a distance you couldn't really distinguish we were internationals. There was a soldier in the distance waving a big Israeli flag for no other reason than to intimidate and let the Palestinians know that they are there and not leaving. Sadly numerous people told us that the amicable side we saw of the soldiers was most likely shown to uphold appearances in front of foreigners.
A definite highlight of the day was having lunch with a Palestinian family in their home. Living on an Israeli controlled street and the man being under house detention, this family have suffered badly. Their road access is constantly closed up, their grape crops have been poisoned, the wife has been beaten and they were living underneath the watchful eye of the leader of the Jewish Defence League. A lovely and interesting family it most certainly feels as though they have been treated unfairly. Home videos showed to us back up this statement. While the soldiers are quick to intercept and take action against Palestinians causing a fight, when the settlers are the ones inflicting the violence the 'authority' figures tend to take a backseat. A horrifying video showing a group of Palestinian school children being attacked by Israeli kids throwing rocks at them is a sad everyday reality. What a way to live. Parents should be ashamed that this violence has become common place and is a treated as a game to their children. Peace negotiations are never going to be successful if future generations are breeding more hate.
Such an interesting day and most certainly a unique experience to see beyond the wall. It doesn't matter how much you study or the extent to which you follow the news, being on the ground and speaking to locals gives a completely different perspective. In the end, it doesn't matter who is right or wrong, legitimate or illegitimate, jewish or muslim, if even one family is suffering it is one too many. Compromise and concessions must be made if peaceful resolutions are to be realised. Perhaps too simplistic an outlook, only time will tell.
