The Red Centre!
AUSTRALIA | Thursday, 24 July 2008 | Views [571] | Comments [1]
On my previous trips to Australia, my biggest regret has always been a failure to make it out the red centre in the Northern Territory. Home to Uluru (or Ayer’s Rock, one of the world’s largest monoliths), Kata Tjuta (The Olgas), and King’s Canyon, the red centre is now definitely on my list of top “must-sees” in Australia. Bryan and I flew from Sydney to Alice Springs the day after our Blue Mountains reality tour, arriving mid-afternoon, just in time for all of Alice’s attractions to begin closing (it was Sunday, hence the early closures). After checking into our hostel and getting some lunch, we set out to explore to the town. We got some essentials at the camping store, including Sigg water bottles (which I’d been wanting for a while), insect repellent, and the most incredible Swedish made spoon, knife, fork combination I’ve ever laid my eyes upon (for only $3.50!). Alice Springs is quite the oasis town, and is considered by many Australians (aka Liam) to be “really the middle of nowhere.” For the middle of nowhere, it was rather bustling during the daylight hours, and had an impressive shopping center and CBD. I actually wish we’d had more time in Alice, as there were several museums that sounded really interesting. After watching an incredible sunset on the top of ANZAC Hill (a must-do in Alice), we retired early, as our tour began with a 5 am pick-up the next morning.
5 am is a terrible time to awaken, and an even worse time to need to depart, particularly when the tour ends up arriving 30 minutes late, and you realized you could have slept for much longer. However, it was within these 30 minutes that I had a life changing conversation. In my many travels, I have never had positive dealings with the French. My late grandfather Roy Miller often traveled on business to France, and I remember him continually singing their praises, but generally have had negative or neutral experiences. In the lobby, we met Carole and Jimmy, a French couple who was traveling “around the world” in two years. They were not only the friendliest French people I’ve ever met, but some of the friendliest and interesting people I’ve met generally. Carole is a chef, and Jimmy is a waiter. When they are at home in France, they travel around working in different gastronomic restaurants. Spending 6 months here, six months there, so that they can see their country. Now they are spending the first year of their round the world trip traveling around Australia, organic farming when they need money. It was great talking to them, and as an added bonus, they often cooked for us…making delicious meals out of the most basic supplies.
The tour company we booked with was Adventure Tours Australia, recommended by my friend Rea, and now recommended by yours truly. Be warned, however, ATA is not a tour for the faint of heart – it involves a rigorous schedule, and willingness to participate in long bushwalks (hikes) and group meals. Our guide Michelle was absolutely fantastic, even though she lost her voice almost completely after the first day. She knew exactly when we needed to sleep in the mini-bus, and when we would be happy to play games and sing some Aussie classics.
Day one began with Bryan and I taking a camel ride (hilarious), followed by a long drive to the national park, and a 15-kilometer hike through Kata Tjuta (the Olgas), which means “Valley of the Winds.” At the end of my trip, it was hard deciding upon a highlight, but really Kata Tjuta is absolutely awe-inspiring. Out of the 36 massive domed rocks that comprise the formation, tourists are allowed to wander around 8. It is an extremely sacred and important site - Michelle said that it was the Vatican of the local aboriginal people. The final lookout couldn’t help but remind me of the end of the movie Land Before Time I, when the baby dinosaurs reach the special valley and find their families. There is really not much else to say, as I will have to let the photos speak for themselves.
After our walk through Kata Tjuta, we drove to Uluru to watch the sunset, which was also incredible. The rock changes colors and illuminations as the sunsets, and it is truly a spectacular sight to witness. Our group then returned to our campsite, to take advantage of the most incredibly hot and clean shower facilities that I have ever seen in a camp. The group was delightfully varied, with representatives from Germany, Switzerland, France, Ireland, New Zealand, New Caledonia, Japan, USA, and Australia. Our ages ranged from early twenties to mid sixties, and everybody participated in everything with gusto.
Day two also began at 5 am, with a drive back to Uluru to watch the sunrise. There were several morning options. Bryan and I chose to do a full base walk of Uluru, which is quite a daunting task to complete in the two hours we were given, but definitely worth it. Seeing the sunrise close-up on the rock is definitely an experience, and was also another major highlight for me. We could have also watched the sun rise from the sunset lookout, and then do a half base walk, or climb the rock (which the local people strongly request we refrain from doing, and is also very dangerous).
The most amazing thing about these formations is their prominence on perfectly flat lands all around them. There are several other formations in the “area” (meaning a space of hundreds to thousands of kilometers), including Mount Connor, often called “Fooluru.” As it is on private land, many unknowing tourists never get close enough to realize that its not the real thing (once you’ve seen Uluru, its clear that they’re vastly different, but if you’re just driving along looking for a big rock, it would be easy to get confused). After our morning at Uluru, we stopped at Mount Connor for the obligatory photo, and then climbed the dunes behind the lookout to see the vast salt lakes behind it.
We spent the afternoon driving to King’s Canyon, learning some interesting and enlightening geological facts along the way. Apparently, the Grand Canyon is not actually a canyon. Canyons are shaped by wind, and a river shapes the Grand Canyon, making it a gorge. However, nobody ever liked the sound of “The Grand Gorge,” so the Grand Canyon it remains. Our campsite at King’s Canyon was much more rustic than that at Uluru, but was situated at the base of some spectacular little cliffs. Several of our more intrepid groups members climbed the cliffs, and watched a beautiful sunset from the top. Michelle cooked us an amazing authentic Aussie bush meal on the fire, and we all stayed up late telling tales around the fire.
Day three began with a good “sleeping in” till 5:30. We got to King’s Canyon early, and began our long hike all through the canyon with a trek up “heart attack hill.” I truly wondered if I would make it, but I did, and (comparatively) it was much easier after that. King’s Canyon is made of composite rock, so its extremely fragile, and sometimes large chunks fall off. The rock is also extremely porous; so many plants grow in its cracks, reaching their roots deeps into the bedrock. We trekked all the way down into the canyon to the “Garden of Eden,” an oasis in the bottom, back up to the top, and around the rim. Bang! Flash! Aliens attacked! Horror of horrors!!!!
We sacrificed Ronnie.
Our fellow American, and a papal pilgrim. Made his last one true journey, and now rests with his fathers. Satisfied, the aliens returned to their ship.
Okay, not really, Bryan just stole my computer for a few minutes.
King’s Canyon, like Uluru and Kata Tjuta, is really better viewed via photo rather than words, and hopefully when I return home to real Internet, I will upload the “best of” shots post-haste.
After the long journey back to Alice Springs, our group reconnoitered for dinner at an interesting local pub called Bojangles, which boasted its own python and live webcam, where family and friends could log-on, watch you having a good time, and buy you a drink. Some would call it interesting. Some would call it radical. I just call it creepy. In all, the trip was absolutely incredible – new faces and new places everywhere we went. The further I travel, the more amazed I am with the world, and the more I want to see. Photos soon!
