Day one flying to Amboseli: My 50th Birthday!!! I left Machulsla house (will add this part later) at 6 am to drive to Nairobe for a 7 am flight to Amboseli airstrip. transferred to smaill plane with 4 other people and they were all onto other destinations as they landed to drop me off at the lonely airstrip. It was a beautiful flight, asd the airstrip lay at the foot of Killamanjaro--truly stunning!
We landed at about 7:45. There were two other people waiting at the airstrip aside from the Maasai guides Daniel and Richard. Here I met Kristen and Davin from Sydney, who would be my campmates that night, and who had just finished climbing to the peak of Killimanjaro with the help of 2 sherpas and a guide and a cook! All that for 2 ppl. I thought at this point we would head to camp to get settled but instead spent the entire day in the jeep-not to waste a safari minute. I didn't even have time to get my binocs out of my bag. We started seeing giraffe and scattered elephants and then finally came upon an enormous herd of Amboseli's elephants numbering at least 200, probably more. We sat parked in the open air jeep as they crossed the road around us. They just kept coming and coming. One mother had a calf that had just been born that day and was still learning to walk. I was overjoyed at the number of babies and young elephants, I would guess 50-60 calves under 2. That said, here in Kenya the mantra is now, thankfully, "Hands off our Elephants" and the sentence for ivory poaching is life in prison and it is now legal for the proper gun toting authorities to shoot to kill them, which thankfully is now becoming a deterrent. Incredibly exciting and somewhat unexpected birthday experience!
At at around 3 or 4 we drove up to an observation point in the park and Daniel and Richard made lunch. Some sort of meat (did not ask but it was delicious!) fruit, pasta, bean salad..Time now to head to the Porini camp. The drive there was an experience in itself and took about an hour and a half-truly an off road experience. This camp is literally in the middle of nowhere--nothing but beautiful bush, sky and scenery, and many Masai 'villiges' scattered over miles--maybe 2 or 3 villages every 2-3 miles, which consist of a circle of rudimentary huts surrounded by a close circle of sticks and branches designed to keep out animals--hyenas, lions (only 20-30 lions in the area) and any other predator that may be a danger to them. Their diet is mostly bush meat. They are poor, and there are small children tending to goats, and they do have herds of cattle and donkeys.The guides stop and throw them water bottles or a few dollars to the women.
They used to have serious conflicts with the wildlife here, killing or trying to kill animals who preyed on their farm animals, but as a people now, they are part of the conservacy and promote wildlife conservation and have been given a stake in preserving it. They get direct compensation from the porinini camps. If livestock is attacked the government replaces it for them.
Finally we got to the camp where I met Tony, the manager, we had a quick shower and went out again for a 'sundowner'. My camera battery was charging in the 'office"--the only place there was any electricity--all solar powered camp btw-so I am counting on Davin to send me some of the sunset pics which included a beaurtiful giraffe, who seemed to be posing in front of the sunset. Back to camp for Masai made dinner and wine, said goodbye to Krisitn and Davin who were leaving the next day, and got zipped up in my tent for the night. No going out of the tent after dark. I was given a whistle if I needed anything. There was a hot water bottle buried in my bed and after I made certain it was not a python, I happily crawled in with it!
Jan 6th
PITCH black all night. Coffee, tea and cookies delivered and a Maasai wake up call at 5:30 sharp. There are 9 tents here but now that the other 2 guests are gone,it is JUST ME and about 8 Maasai staff/guides and driver Daniel to look after me! Feeling a bit odd, and like I'm getting too much attention, but out we went just Daniel and Richard and I on a morning game drive. It was a quiet morning but we drove and drove--saw 4 giraffe, lots and lots of gazells and ostriches, beautiful birds, but even Daniel said it was a quiet morning. So he went way off road deep into bush and mud that I thought we would surely get stuck in. Serious off roading, which I loved although I was bouncing all over the place all morning. In the end, we found a lone elephant in the bush and were able to get quite close to him. I was thrilled. I asked them if they ever get lost out here and they laughed.
Just returned from the drive,had breakfast servd by Maasai guy John. Whole mess tent to myself! Tony, the manager came and ate and chatted with me. I never expected to be alone in camp, and nobody else is arriving until tomorrow. Back out to the bush again with Daniel and Richard on another drive (11:30). Maybe more animals wil be out and about.
Just getting back now from 11:30 drive. So again, this jeep has 9 seats and it's just the 3 of us. Daniel was determined to find sme elephants and whatever else is hiding out there. The terrain here is so much different from the flat land in Amboseli park. In Amboseli park you cannot drive off the road to get close to the animals. Here there is a LOT of deep bush to hide in and so into the deep bush we went.bouncing through deep elephant tracks and mud, and the ride was so rough that if you didn't hold on you could possible fall right out. Again, fine with me! Spotted some more giraffes--they are so interested in the jeeps--they stare and stare until you are out of sight. After the rough ride we hit the jackpot and came right up to a herd of 8-10 elephants with a matriarch and around 4 aged 2-4. We got so close--within about 10 feet that my heart was pounding and even the guys were taking video. I was nervous that they would get irritated with us because we sat watching them for 5-10 minutes, but Daniel and Richard werent nervous at all. The elephants are not in much danger at all in this area and they dont see the jeeps as a threat so they don't charge. Right after they moved on, an enormous bull appeared. He did't want anything to do with us and moved on following the herd at a distance. What a rush to be that close and have them approach peacefully.
While the drive continued, I asked Richard and Daniel about how they become Maasai guides. There was a brochure offering an opportunity to help pay for a local Maasai to go through the guide training program, which is $2300 USD. They were not forthcoming with an answer so later I prodded a bit. What I found out is that they did have two years of training--mostly in the bush, however the only way to get it is to have parents who own cows or goats. They sell a cow or goats to pay for the training.
They told me that nobody gets any charity money to be trained. No animal to sell, no training. In their cases, their parents paid with the cow, then they worked as guides to replace the cow. I kept asking questions and they also revealed that the local people don't get nearly what they should for participating in the previously described scenario, and that they only get direct MONEY for beads they sell in the gift shop behind the mess tent. Guess I'll have to make a stop there.
Lunch was beet, onion and orange salad, something like beef, veggies and potatoes. And a Tusker beer, again with the camp manager Served again by smiling, friendly John. Back out to the bush at 4. I wish for them that they had more guests but it's low season.
January 7th around noon:
the rest of yesterday proved to be educational, somewhat awkward, and then at the end of the day quite exciting--my first time seeing lions in the wild.
After lunch, Richard decided it was time for me to visit the Masai village, an experience which, as I had been told earlier by Kristen, felt a bit staged. that said theres probably not a way to do it that is not, I suppose. So we took off in the jeep toward the village, and Daniel pulls over as we see 4 Masai warriors walking toward us. It was, as I suppose it was supposed to be, a bit intimidating. they taught me how to throw a traditional spear (previously used to kill lions) and then we walked to the village. The same village as I had sseen earlier, only 10 times the size with about 30 families (husbands with multiple wives) I was shown the huts, how they are made by the women with stick frames brush plastered together with mud and cow urine, which is more accessible than water. I was happy to see how they live, unfortunately the downside is that they use manure from all the animals for their fires,so the camp is filled with it, and as a result also filled with more flies than I have ever seen or care to see in my life. We were all covered in buzzing flies (50-100 on each person at all times!) I bought a beaded necklace from the women for $30 but would have gladly paid 10 times that to immediately escape the flies, which did a good job of staying with is in the jeep on the way out of the village. Next time I'd prefer a story told and to offer the $30 donation.
That experience under the belt, we headed out to the bush for the sundown drive, and for about an hour didn't see much wildlife. I got the feeling Daniel and Richard were looking for lions in particluar. They were,and they found them. He drove right up to a lioness and the biggest male in any of the 4 prides residing here. I was more than a little nervous being within 25 feet of them, especially when Daniel shut off the engine. Richard assured me that the lions here are 'friendly and never charge' which did not make me feel as calm as he was! Within about 20 seconds the male got right up, nuzzled the lioness and mounted her to mate. Got video. Lions mate for 7 straight days, every 15 minutes with no food and no sleep, which I suppose is why the guys knew right away that they were not hungry. This made me feel much better about the fact that he shut off the engine. After the show the cats put on, we watched for awhile longer and headed toward camp stopping for sunset, a drink and a chat. The ride back turned into my own private night game drive with spotlight. Incredible extended birthday day followed by a shower (bucket, with hot water delivered as we got back to camp), dinner with Tony, who loves Obama and Cookie and Lucious from "Empire". Plans made for not so early game drive in the morning. 6:30 coffee and breakfast andout by 7.
Morning of Jan 7th: More Elephants in the bush.
I had the choice today to go back to the Amboseli Park or to stay in the conservancy which is where the camp is, and I opted to stick close to camp to avoid the hour and a half drive to and from the park. It was a good decision. Maybe 45 minutes into the bush we (they!) found a female elephant with a 2 year old baby surrounded by 7-8 bulls (actually saw 4 more later as we left them). The largest bull was guarding her but they were all waiting patiently to see if they stood a chance at mating with her. They were very active, throwing up dust, and we got within about 25 feet of one or two of them, and we were able to sit quietly and observe them for almost 25-30 min.
Later in the day a travel writer arrived to camp, and we went out for the evening sunset drive to search for the lions in the complete opposite direction than the morning--flatter, drier, not in the thick bush. We saw a lot of game but no lions. The guys found their tracks, and we drove for what seemed like a long time in circles but finally found the pair again near a watering hole. We sat and watched them, having our sundown cocktail in the jeep, and headed back when it got too dark to see them anymore. We had about a 40 minute night drive back to camp. Richard lit up 5-6 elephants eating in the tall bush, but I didn't realize at the time that we were pulling into camp so they were 30-40 meters from the tents.
(STOP!! I'm typing now from the Mara in the Lion Camp after having arrived and finishing lunch. I'm on my bed looking out at the camp and trees. Holy shit!!!! A troop of at least 10 baboons of all sizes have just come out of the woods, climbed one after the other straight up the tent pole directly outside, and are runnning around above my head on the roof like crazies. They are dangling from the branches of the over head trees. Heart pounding!! Now they are just sitting up there....supposed to go uot for 4 pm game drive. Not leaving this tent with a pack of monkeys up there!! WOW WOW WOW!!!
So after the baboon fiasco I can return to the timeline... That was the last night in Ambosesli and yesterday AM the boys were ready to get me to the airstrip by 8 for my flight BACK to Nairobe and then out again to Masaai Mara.Sleeping here has been hard,so I was up at 5 and we ;left camp at 600 iin the dark and Danieland Richard hauled ass as much as possible to the airstrip- there is no smooth ride or any normal road to our standards. Mud running basically. We got there right on time. Killamanjaro was ritht there wishing aus a good morning.We also got some game viewing in on the way and I got closer to a buffalo then I ever will again in my life. Pics to follow. The plane landed and out came two uniformed pilots. I said goodby to the boys, tipped them hopefully more than they were expection, got some pics and jumped on the plane. This ended up being my own private flight back to Nairobe where I did get some texting donewith internet there. Then off to board the next plane to the Maasai Mara. This plane was full, which I expected. but still only 12 passengers.
