So my move to India qualifies as the most abrupt lifestyle change yet. After some major issues courtesy of China, I arrived in Delhi a few hours before New Year’s Eve. Walking out of the airport, there were several huge dogs sniffing around, and it took me a moment to realize they were wild. The couple that I’m staying with, Shanu and Kapil, brought me to a small NYE party with two other families. Right after midnight, curry dinner was served and everyone took a bite of a piece of cake from the hands of the host. Shanu and Kapil kindly offered to host me, so I have been living with them and their 6 year-old daughter, Akshita. They are lovely; in India, “guest is god”.
Some strange things so far:
- Traffic jams caused by garbage was a story on the news.
- Delhi is one of the most unsafe cities for women, statistically. After the horrific rape case that got international attention, protests continue. Several prominent politicians stated that women are equally responsible for wearing provocative clothing. A religious guru said that woman should pray to god and accept rapists as their brothers. There was also a 6 year-old raped on new year’s eve. But the incidents have sparked major discussion, and the government is under pressure. There is talk of introducing the death penalty by hanging for rape.
- Delhi experienced the coldest day on record, 4.5°C. Stores were closed, and people huddled around burning piles of debris to stay warm.
- Chai is served 5+ times a day. The food is amazing, but more oily and fried than what I'm used to. The maids are going to teach me how to make several dishes.
- The most important institution is the family. -“What is your family” is a small talk question. You are understood only in relation to your family, and family's social caste. I couldn’t get a cell phone or gym membership without providing the first name of my father, as I am unmarried.
- When the TV showed people sipping wine for a wedding toast, a warning is displayed in the corner of the screen reading ‘alcohol is hazardous to your health’.
- Weddings are the biggest celebration in a person’s life. My first night here, I was invited to a cousin’s wedding. It is a 5-day affair. And divorce is not an option- they believe you will stay married not only until you die, but in your following 7 lives as well. This wedding is a rare ‘love marriage’ (as opposed to arranged) and it took 2 years for the couple to convince their families.
-They took me shopping at a market for Indian clothes, under Shanu’s guidance got several saris, complete with scarves and bangles, and the bindi. Prices magically multiplied if shopkeepers saw me.
- Kapil tells me India is a hypocritical society. It is shameful to drink, cheat on partners, etc. but many do such things in private.
- At another market, there were kids dressed in rags begging for money. They told me to ignore them as they are not actually poor, and are part of a gang. An 8 year-old boy was tugging a baby around that was just barely old enough to waddle on its own. He pushed it behind a man so that the man stepped on the baby’s fingers, making it cry, so the boy could pressure the man for money.
- All the waygooks in Korea think Korean traffic is horrific. Imagine that, but multiply the volume by 5, cut the size of roads in half, take away the lanes, and mix in a ton of pedestrians, pigs, cows, and tuk-tuks.
- At traffic lights, beggars appear, weaving between the cars on the highway knocking on windows begging for money. They are also organized by a gang. Akshita urged me, “do not see them, do not see” as if you make eye contact they won’t leave your car alone.
-Delhi frequently experiences blackouts. The family lights a candle and sits around the table together, waiting until it comes back on.
So those are some first impressions, I’ll talk about wroking in a slum next time. (If this blog survives my apathy more than the Korea blog, that is.)
Peace,
Eliza
