Peaceful Adventures

I was at my local, middle of winter of 2014, heavy slab that sucks up right onto a nice flat rock. Flat rock is the name of break and for this travel treasure it wasn't a physical thing or place. It was the moment, the moment I basically traveled through time. I sat in deep, probably a dangerous spot but I was looking for the hard yards, the long ride covered by the curtain of clear glassy blue water. Pulling into this 8 foot bomb that curled over like gold because of the reflecting sun. To my astonishment, half golden half blue. The moment of travelling through that barrel everything became slow motion, my mind became clear, no negative vibes nothing like that. I tucked in tightly and pulled the left rail up to stabilize myself.

The moment the water became smooth it felt like I was in a completely different world. All I could see was this glassy curtain barely staying open in front of me and in the distance the lighthouse that separates the harbor. In the background you could hear the chants of the other surfers. "Yew" they said. But during the moment I didn't lose focus from my treasured moment.

The ride was only about 15 seconds and only took me about 50 metres away but in all honesty I felt like I was in the moment for decades.
The serendipitous moment that will last in my memory for the rest of my life and the fact that only I will remember the moment in my own way is what makes it a memory worth keeping.