Day 28 - THUR - 11/10/12 - NungWi : Stonetown, Zanzibar
We started the day with another scrummy breakfast of an omlette, fresh juice, fresh fruit and toast with homemade guava and mango jam.
After brekkie we departed for the 1.5hr drive back to Stonetown. We took a detour on the way to go on a Spice Tour (no Baby Spice in sight) in Kisimbali. The tour is based in a village where they cultivate the spices and all work the land - similar to a co-op and share the sales amoungst the village.
Ali was our G (guide) and kept telling us he was 'in da house' and was fantastic at accents. We were shown how coffee is grown as well as the raw form of nutmeg - known as mace (which can be used in chicken soup), originating from a red seed of a yellow fruit (about the size of a passionfruit). The dried seed is then ground unto nutmeg.
We were also shown mimosa - sleeping grass which has a small purple flower and the leaves curl up when it is touched. We also saw Jackfruit where each piece of fruit weighs 25-30kg and grows on the trunks and branches of the tree. It also has a banana/ pineapple taste.
We saw Cassava - an African staple which has leaves that you eat like spinach and you can make into a necklace and the root is used like a yam to eat. Cloves were also shown - traditionally used to take away the pain of a toothache. Cocoa beans were also grown and picked when they turn yellow for chocolate. Lemongrass was growing - looking just like a grass plant like flax. Reisun was growing, the root of which is dried and crushed to make tumeric with. Ginger was also growing, again the root is used. A plant called Annatto was also growing and is used by locals as lipstick - the pulp of the seed is an orange-red colour that is put on your finger and used to brighten up the lips by dapping the inside pulp on. Vanilla was also shown. It is a vine that is hand pollinated and then after a further 5 months it is dried. No wonder it is so expensive!
Yang Yang tree had flowers right up the top, that are harvested by climbing up the tree. They are dried, pressed and the oil is used for most perfume bases. We were also shown Jasmin oil which I bought a small vile of.
Pepper is also grown on vines on the land. It can be picked when it is green, dried in the sun it then turns black. Green to red pepper corns are green corns left on the vine to ripen. For white corns, it is the same process but after picking when they are ripe, they are soaked in water then the skin is removed. Cardamon aids digestion and lets you be less windy, which explains why it is in alot of traditional tribe teas.
After the tour we had a tasting session of some fruits of Africa - a green coloured orange, a green mandarin, a green grapefruit (all very ripe and sweet); custard apple; banana and jackfruit. We also had the opportunity to buy fresh spices direct from the farm.
From there we had a short bus trip to a small village where we were hosted for lunch in a local lady's home. We had a beef and banana stew; nama choma stew; rice with cardamon and cummin; salad of capsicum, onion, tomato and carrot all thinly sliced and left to rest to allow the juices to marinate it. After lunch we headed to Stonetown and checked into ourlast hotel for a while!
The afternoon was spent on a Stonetown City Tour. The architecture was very interesting in that when they constructed the buildings with mud they used coral that had washed up in town and on the shore. We walked through the local food market with slabs of beef and seafood strung up in the 35 degree celcius heat - it was interesting to see their version of aged air dried beef. ;) Not to mention the pungent smell! After the food market we headed to the old location of the Slave Market.
Before colanisation, the Arab's would go to chiefs in the tribe villages and tell them there was a lot of work and large pay in overseas colanies. What actually happened though was that the Arab's would chain the tribes people together, march them to the rivers and ports; and send them to Zanzibar Slave Market for sale and then shipping overseas.
The 'slaves' would be kept in concrete holding pits for 3-4 days with men seperated from women and children. In the pit they were again chained together by their neck with less than a shoulder width apart, in series of 6 people. There was a pit that would be used as the toilet and when the tide came in while the village people were being put up for sale as slaves, it washed away the defication that had been deposited in the pit.
75 people were in each of the holding chambers. There were 15 chambers. In 1873 slavery became illegal but within 20km the Arab's still traded in slavery until 1907 when it was abolished with the assistance of the British missionaries and Dr Livingstone's contribution. A cathedral was built on the site as an Anglican church 1 year after the slave trade was abolished. The church however was built using 'missionary' labour. Aka salves by the very people who were said to have helped abolish the practice of slavery.
Outside the church is a huge Soap Tree. Aptly named as once the berries on the tree are crushed they are used to create a lather to clean clothes. We also visted the house where Freddy Mercury of KISS fame was born.
From there we headed off to walk through one of the original Arab forts. It was sympathetically extended in 1996 to be able to house an ampitheatre where traditional African dances are now performed.
The last stop was the House of Wonders. This was originally built by the Sultan but designed by a Scottish architect. The building had the first electricity, running water and even a lift on Zanzibar. Today it houses the island's museum of local items from Arab history as well as local Africans history. It also has a spectacular view over the port and the night seafood market area. It was being set up when we were there in the late afternoon.
The night seafood markets are not to be missed as the Zanzibar Pizza made from diced tomato, onion, chilli, beef mince and egg; all fried in a thin Turkish pizza style dough - it was absolutely delicious!! Not to mention accompaning it with a fresh squeezed lime and sugar cane juice - yummmmo!!! Dessert was even better - a Zanzibar Pizza with Nutella and fresh cut mango - ammmmmazing!!
