Sandoval in Sandals

It all seemed ever so simple about six months before going, but travelling is often like that. Go to the Peruvian Amazon, bunk for a slightly touristic but highly anticipatory night in Puerto Maldonado, navigate the Madre de Dios, hike to Lake Sandoval and see the Giant River Otters (Pteronura brasiliensis). Easy right?

Right up to the hike that's exactly what it was, barring a slight incident with a fellow tourist failing to navigate the wooden boarding plank appropriately. After a stunning trip down the river, incorporating a host of wildlife including a rather chilled out Capybarra in the enviable position of lounging on the riverbank, we reached a small wooden platform. The hike to Sandoval was along a path. A little voice in my head went "Path? I can get out of these boots and into my sandals"

Mistake. Path is an ambiguous word, a fact that I hadn't quite appreciated before. My feet sinking into the floor every step however provided me with an unparalleled ability to lean back and see a Sloth hanging out in the tree above. It struck me that while most of the people in the Amazon seemed busy, the animals themselves seemed to opt for a slower pace.

A short but somewhat arduous trek later we reached the lake edge. On a boat called the 'Arapaima' named for the local highly carnivorous giant freshwater fish, we made it to a small lodge. Our guide suggested that a nap was in order, not in the mood for napping I spent my time trying to release the mud from between my toes and looking out my hiking boots, just in case.

Booted and ready we met at the canoe and donned ourselves with paddles. A swift paddle across the lake led to some raucous squeeking and our guide standing up and doing what I can only describe as the impression of a Meerkat. Some smooth paddling later, floating on her back was a Giant River Otter. These creatures are known as River Wolves because they hunt in packs and as a pack they will take on Caiman and almost anything else that encroaches on their territory. I wanted to reach out and stroke it. As she decided to take a bite of the fish clenched tightly in her paws I suddenly could see why their reputation was slightly more notorious. My what large teeth they have!

Then another set of squeaks started, and another, and suddenly she was sharing her meal with two young otters. As they ate, played and cavorted in the swiftly setting sun I felt myself relax back into the boat.

All I could think was 'Worth it, absolutely worth it'.