Thu 28 Mar
We took a morning tour of an underground working mine to get a feel of the terrible and claustrophobic conditions under which miners still work today. It is also traditional to take gifts to the miners, consisting of dynamite (!), 96% proof alcohol, coca leaves (which they chew to give them continual energy) and other bits & pieces - all purchased at the local miners' market.
In the afternoon we visited the Casa del Moneda (original 18th century mint, now a museum) which was fascinating, learning all about how, in colonial times, Potosi produced silver coins for most of South America, and seeing the early equipment used.
Dinner was at 'western style' restaurant appropriately called '4060'. Julie ordered steak in mushroom and white wine sauce, and Peter ordered a steak that literally covered the entire oval plate it was served on! Both meals were delicious and the bill came to 150 Bols, or A$22. Admittedly that cost didn't include alcohol as the wine was too expensive (and not very good in Bolivia) to consider purchasing, and beer was not being sold due to Easter!
By the way, because Bolivia produces tin, all the rural mud brick farm houses and shacks have tin roofs that glisten almost blindingly in the sunshine!
Fri 29 Mar
Hard to believe it's Day 42 (and the last day) of our tour from Ushuaia- we've done and seen so much. But today we continue driving across the dusty windy road of the Altoplano to the highest capital in the world, La Paz, at 3630m above sea level. The fact we have been at high altitude now for about a week, and although the other symptoms have subsided (headaches, nausea and tiresssness), it is still necessary to walk slowly and drink plenty of water.
La Paz lies huddled in an enormous canyon basin. It is a fascinating city with the old town in the bottom of the canyon in the centre surrounded by sprawling shantytowns which extend up the slopes of the bowl. Driving into La Paz is stunning - you catch your first glimpse of the city at the top of the rim and descend in a spiral down to the city centre at the bottom
Meanwhile, after breakfast we departed Potosi at 8am departure for La Paz. Stopped after two hours for truck repair assessment and again after another hour for actual repairs. A fuel injector pipe had sheared off causing a diesel smell in the truck and a fuel leak in the engine. We stopped in a small dusty rural village while the crew did repairs then were off again. Thankfully the past few days' driving has been on bitumen roads Rather than the typical rough bumpy dusty tracks the Bolivians call roads. Nonetheless, ten hours in a truck/bus on any road is tiring.
Again we have passed amazing scenery today - soaring mountains and lush valleys dotted with rural farms and farmers tending their flocks of llamas or sheep.
We arrive at night which provides an amazing spectacle of lights as we arrive. We check into Hotel Estrella Andina which is itself quite something - hand-painted wall murals everywhere - in reception, along every corridor and in all rooms. Our quite spacious room has a full mural of rowing boats moored in a lush lagoon with swans floating past! And we have great city views from our fourth floor window.
Sat 30 Mar
Leisurely start to the day with a substantial hotel breakfast. We then find out that a resort town on Lake Titicaca called Copacabana, where we were to go to on our next tour, is impassable due to civil unrest. This is disappointing as it means we miss visiting Isla del Sol and a four hour hike along the ancient Incca paths on the island. We therefore rearrage our itinerary to remain in La Paz another two days and leave on Thursay 4/4, going directly to Puno.
In the afteroon we wander around the old town with its cobbled streets full of colourful street stalls and markets selling anything and everything. We also visit the Museum of Contemporary Art which is quite amazing and then onto an Indian restaurant with the group for a farewell dinner. The meal was ok but the best part was the waiters who quite inadvrtently and innocently provided entertainment (think Manuel in Fawlty Towers)!
Back at the hotel we skyped the family who have gathered at mum's for Easter Sunday lunch. It was particularly lovely seeing Venice, Mali and of course Arinze.
Sun 31 Mar
Awoken around 2am by Sheridan's phone call, and again at 5am by an Easter religous procession complete with brass band and a cast of thousands passing beneath our hotel room window!
We took a day tour to the most important archeological site in Bolivia, the pe-Incan site of Tiwanaku (1600BC). It was very interestng of course to see such intricately carved stonework, as well as to visit a museum explainibng the rise and fall of the inhabitats. Lunch was included which consisted of quinoa soup followed by grilled trout from Lake Titicaca - delicous.
Mon 01 Apr
Patches of rain in the afternon and visited the Coca Museum. This was particularly interestig as it traced the origins of the coca plant, which is so imbedded in the Bolivian culture, from its 'innocent' use through the centuries to the more recent interference from the west using deriatives of the plant for medical purposes through to cocaine production, use and abuse. Also showed the 'invention' of the drink Coca-Cola which contains derivatves of the coca plant.
We also visited the Witches' Market and generally cotinued to wander around - always walking in 'slow motion' up the steep streets in this high altitude. Apparently people born in high altitude have larger lung capacity which is why they can walk up the steep slopes so quickly.
Also, we are in the land where women wear thick gathered skirts and bowler hats and have long plaits down to their waist. They carry babies on their backs in brightly coloured wraps knotted around their necks.
Back at the hotel for a late aternoon rest, we enoyed a bottle of champagne (purchased back in Mendoza) on the hotel's rooftop terrace in the warm sunshine. Dinner was with some friends from the tur at a quirky restaurant full of local paraphenalia all over the walls.
Tue 02 Apr
The Dragoman truck left for Puno this morning. We shall probably see others from that tour along the way to Lima as our itinerary virtually parallels theirs - albeit in more style and comort!, We then reboard the truck in Lima and continue to Cartegena in Colombia.
Today we visited a number of museums in another part of town we had not previously visited and, again, some afternoon rain. Back at the hotel for an afternoon rest and diary writing, then out to dinner with a fellow from the Santiago trip who is flying home tomorrow.
