Mon 29 Apr
Five o'clock departure this morning for a 600km drive to Chugchillan via Riobamba - the last hundred or so kilometres being particularly spectaular with lush farmland hugging the sides of very deep valleys, and forests of every shade of green. As we drive higher and higher along sometimes narrow gravel roads we pass small villages and isolated homesteads with young children, chicken and geese running around. It's also amazing to see sheep and cows grazing on particularly steep slopes (and not slipping into the rivers below!) Chugchillan itself sits on the slopes of the Rio Toachi Canyon and will be our base for the next two nights.
Tue 30 Apr
Early start today for a rough gravel road drive from Chugchillan to Lake Quilotoa (3800m) which is a stunning volcanic crater lake. We begin by trekking for an hour or so around the rim of this exquisitely green lake (which is almost two kms wide) and begin our descent into the dense and lush valley below. Our trip notes say that this trek is "...mainly downhill with a steep incline at the end back to the village." In actual fact this trek was the most strenuous activity we have ever done. Sure we went downhill through steep canyons and crevisses, but when we crossed the little bridge at the bottom we knew we had a 2-3 hour trek back up which, given the high altitude, got to Julie and she was near exhaustion when we finally returned to our lodge where she just collapsed on the bed and didn't move for the next two hours until it was time for dinner. Peter and the others managed the trek really well.
What didn't help was the fact that Julie gave all her snacks away to some young children we met at a farmhouse where their father was skinning and gutting a sheep strung from a tree! This was an unexpected detour and quite an enjoyable rest spot, and a sheer delight playing with the children. But the result was that Julie suffered because she was hungry and therefore weak all the way up the mountain.
Surprisingly, while we were all complaining about the stenuous nature of the trek, along the way we would see farmers tending their isolated terraced fields so high up in the mountains, children walking up and downhill to school (which they would do every day) and other locals taking the steepness of the mountains well in their stride.
The saving grace was the spectacular scenery which just goes on and on.
Wed 01 May
Today we leave one beautiful lush valley for another, driving to the small town of Rio Verde, so named for the clear green water of the river that runs though it. We stay at Peqeno Paradiso, a lodge and campsite in a tranquil tropical setting.There are around 20 waterfalls in this region and today we visit one of the most spectacular ones, climbing through a natural crack in the rocks to get almost to the edge of it..
We also take a local bus into the larger nearby town of Banos where we enjoy trout ('trucha') for lunch.
For dinner Julie's group cook spagetti bolognese (again, of course - different eaters though).
By the way, we are staying relatively near an active volcano, Mt Tungurahua, which last erupted in 1999, causing the evacuation of Banos. For the past few months this volcano has been rumbling and spewing molten ash which we we can see from our lodge - so after dinner we took a drive (in the back of a farmer's truck) to the top of a neary mountain to get a better view of the golden glow of lava splashing out against the black night sky - unbelievable!
Thu 02 May
Leisurely walk to a giant waterfall where we don our raincoats and walk along a 1km path firstly to the top of the falls and then to the bottom. Weather is warm with occasional afternoon showers.
Fri 03 May
After a late and lazy breakfast of pancakes we take a cable car across a valley, then a long forest walk, then a ride in a crazy open-air multi-coloured local tourist truck with blaring loud music, eat more trout at a local restaurat where you catch your own which they then cook, then another long walk down another waterfall to rock pools below, then back to our lodge to catch up on emails and diary writing!
Sat 04 May
Today was an eight hour drive to Coca, a city located at the confluence of the Napo River and the Coca River and from where we shall enter the Amazon jungle for three days of wilderness. We stay overnight at the Yasuni Hotel.
Sun 05 May to Wed 08 May
This morning we board a motorised canoe for a seven hour river ride deep into the jungle, stopping at a local village along the way for lunch. We arrive at the Horizon Paradise Lodge in time to settle into our small cabins before darkness, as there is only electricity in the kitchen and main dining area. Lighting in the cabins and recreation areas is by candle or our head lamps.
We have a crew of six local fellows looking after us - taking us on jungle treks, pirahna fishing trips, birdwatching, night canoe rides and, of course, cooking delicious local meals each day. Jungle walks were through thick forest full of cobwebs (and of course token tarantulas!), where we saw monkeys swinging from trees and many different insects. Our guides also explained to us the many medicinal uses for many jungle plants.
Weather is warm and very humid - clothes stick to our bodies and nothing dries overnight. In fact, clothes feel more damp the next morning! Needless to say we all feel pretty grotty by the time we leave, but still having had a wonderful experience.
Overnight rain swells both the Napo and Panachoca rivers so our return canoe ride is slightly shorter. We stay the night again in Coca.
Thu 09 May
300 km drive to Quito, Ecuador's capital. Quito lies in a hollow at the base of Volcano Pichincha and the old section of town is a maze of steep cobbled streets with intricately carved overhanging balconies. It has many churches and plazas and our hotel (Alston Inn Hotel) is located in the trendier and more modern section of town.
On this leg of the trip there are only four passengers and two crew so it's quite an exclusive little group! It seems funny so few people sitting in a 22-seater bus but we have plenty of room for our stuff.
Fri 10 May
We didn't sleep well last night because of constant talking all night by reception staff (our room was nearby) so this morning we arranged to change rooms to a quieter section.
We arranged for a big bag of laundry to be cleaned - particularly our Amazon clothes plus some other things that got wet in our luggage when it was left on the truck and rain got in.
In the afternoon we visited the Museo Guayasamin & Capilla Del Hombre (Chapel of Man). This museum houses the largest collection of works by Ecuador's famous indigenous painter, Oswaldo Guayasamin, plus his collection of pre-Columbian artifacts. The Capilla, which is a large monument-cum- museum, is his " tribute to humankind and to the suffering of Latin America's indigenous poor, and to the undying how for a better world". It is quite a moving place and his paintings depicting such suffering are truly amazing.
We also visited the Museo del Banco Central which showcases Ecuadorian art, from pre-Columbian and colonial religious art to 20th century paintings and sculpture.
Sat 11 May
This morning we drove to Otavalo, stopping en route at the Equator monument, 22km north of Quito. It felt strange to be standing on the equator wearing a jumper - I always imagined it to be hot but because we're still in high altitude the mornings are still cool!
Otavalo is a small town known for its huge Saturday market. Many women of the local indigenous communities still wear their traditional clothing made from intricately woven and decorated fabrics, and the men tend to wear their hair in long ponytails.
We stay the night high up in the mountains at the Rose Cottage Hostel. We choose a tiny cottage which is little more than a doll's house - a cute little timber cottage with a double bed taking up a mezzanine floor above and barely enough room to move below. Even the bathroom was tiny. But it was a novelty experience and quite romantic actually! (see Facebook photo). From our bedroom window we had a view of city lights below at night, and in the morning the most spectacular mountain scenery.
Sun 12 May
"Welcome to Colombia. Enjoy your stay" said the border control fellow as he stamped or passports. We've never been greeted so warmly - the guide books are all correct, Columbia IS a friendly country. And border formalities were the quickest and most orderly we've encountered thus far.
Unfortunately Colombia still has a bad reputation due to its illegal drug trade but that apparently has come under some control in recent years (it still operates but without so much bloodshed). This is good news because the local people really are so friendly and love chatting and finding out where we're from, and the country is so scenic and the coffee is the best in South America.
En route to our overnight stopover at Ipiales, just across the border, we visit the Santuario due Las Lajas, the site of 'many a miracle and apparition over the years' (?). The church/sanctuary is a crazy Gothic-style construction straddling a dramatic gorge with rushing river below. Very kitch!
Mon 13 May
OMG! ! To think that nature can be so beautiful!! We have seen lots of spectacular scenery on this trip and today's is up there with the best! Think Swiss Alps, Italy's Dolomites, Hindu Kush Valley (Himalayas, Northern India) plus the best of NZ, and you begin to get an idea of what we enjoyed today. It was riveting, seeing lush valleys, deep river gorges etc etc.
All this on the road from Ipiales north to Popayan. This section of road is also notorious for kidnappings so we were anxious to make it through without incident. The sight of army personnel along the route was reassuring!
We did manage to stop along the way for lunch at a traditional open-air restaurant that was full of hundreds of locals (on a Monday?) so we felt safe there.
We arrived in Popayan around 5pm, checked into the hostel and immediately hit the streets (as we usually do!). Popayan is a beautiful colonial town of white-washed houses and grand churches set amidst rolling green hills. Being a university town gives it a very sociable feel with lots of cafes (and good Colombian coffee!).
