On the Road

We discovered the heart and soul of Cuba through the eyes and hearts of two hitchhikers, Judith and Valentín of Viñales. They have a place in my heart to this day.

Everything about our trip felt daring. The US Cuba trade embargo was in full swing. As American ex-pats we made our trip to Havana via Spain. At the time, the release of Buena Vista Social Club made the world spin while grunge faded into mainstream glory.

Our plan was to stretch our legs in Old Havana before setting off on our road trip. We would walk along the Malecón, eat ropa vieja and sip mojitos while listening to the distinct sound of the clave.

We did all that and more.

We fell for a young teen offering us an exchange rate for US dollars better than the hotels! We never saw the $100 again. We were overcharged by a cabbie driving the skeletal remains of what was a classic 50s automobile. I spent hours on the phone with the hotel’s car rental agency, realizing we wouldn’t set off on any journey unless we agreed to take the slightly more expensive, but available, vehicle.

We agreed to watch the tourist bubble and be more cautious. We were ready for anything so we set out west from Havana to start our trip around Cuba.

We got lost and stopped by what seemed a deserted field. We were suddenly surrounded by children 5 to 10 years of age. We opened our bag pre-packed with pens, pencils, candies and soap. We handed them out and our path cleared. A short while later we saw hitchhikers. They looked like a sweet couple so we picked them up.

Viñales was originally intended as a brief stop to Pinar del Río. After meeting Judith and Valentín, it became an overnight stay and a place with a big heart. We met their generous friends and ate at their delicious paladar. No one had an idea about Buena Vista Social Club but were happy that Cuban music was seeing so much favor. They took us to a friend who rolled cigars, we learned about the process, and smoked with them. We had rum, chewed sugar cane and answered questions about the United States. We learned about their educational and health system and how they made their living.

We were given a simple room, two beds and a restful sleep. The next morning Valentín had one request. Could he drive our rental car? He wanted to be seen driving with his wife Judith and new American friends. And off we went. His look of pride made my heart swell.

With the US embargo lifted go to Viñales, you might meet a beautiful couple like Judith and Valentín.