July 5
Yesterday we visited the Bayeux Tapestry. The word tapestry confused me as I expected a
large wall hanging contained in one room.
Instead, this is a long (about 68 meters) piece of light colored linen that
is wrapped around the walls of a building that reminds one of being in a moat
(an experience we’ve had at the Louvre and at the Paris Crypts). The cloth contains remarkable embroidery that
tells (graphically) the story of the Battle of Hastings which was fought in
1066 – basically the Norman Conquest.
The needlework is extraordinary and the origin is disputed – it may be
French but is more likely created in England.
As with all things regarding the Norman Conquest there is the French
version and then there is the British version.
Our instructor (Anne-Marie) insists that if the British had the same
texts available, they would know better.
C’est la vie.
After an incredible meal for lunch (my first pork of this
trip), we visited the Caen Memorial. Caen was nearly destroyed by the allies during the D-Day Invasion so it is a fitting place to pay tribute to the French experience of WWII.
Needless to say this was a very emotional time for everyone we are traveling with. I was almost OK until
we got to the part that spoke to how we distance ourselves from our worst
actions. In this section of the museum,
there is the text of a letter sent by a young Austrian draftee to the German
Army. The letter was sent to his wife
and two young children. In the text he
describes his work on the firing squad as the Jewish families are being ‘chosen
and separated’ for immediate death or work camps. It is very descriptive and I am crying as I
remember his chilling description of parents tossing their children in the air
to try to save them from the bullets – and how on the second time at the firing
line this young father and his comrades began to strafe in circles to make sure
to deal with the entire problem efficiently.
This museum was the most graphic war memorial I have ever visited. The people who put it together did not hold back and edit out what might be disturbing. I wonder if this is so that perhaps we will remember the horror of war and not the glory that is portrayed?
Tomorrow Bill, Sterling and I are heading to a museum in L’Havre
that specializes in impressionist art – they have the second largest collection
of impressionist paintings in France.
Second to the Musee d’Orsay, which delighted all of us.
Bon soiree’ mon amis…
