On Wed, June 29 we set off for the Catacombs, which is in the
Montparnasse arondissement. Then we saw
the long line waiting to get in so we decided to each lunch instead. It was another fabulous meal at the corner of
a small walking alley lined with food vendors.
Fishmongers, wine, fromage and charcuterie sellers lined the alley. We had a ringside seat as the locals
celebrated the cooling temps with a parade of beautiful clothing.
Apparently during my food induced stupor of ecstasy I agreed
to let Sterling map the remainder of the day.
So, it became climbing day. We
wandered around the Pigalle (home of the Moulin Rouge and other night time
entertainments). It was fun because I
located a small pensione that my brother Matt and I stayed at during the
‘80’s. Tucked away in a very quiet
corner of this lively district, it was fun to see after so many years. Then it was off to find the Cemetary of
Montmartre and then up to the Sacre Couer (highest natural point in the city)
and then to the Arc de Triomphe to climb to the top.
I thought that this might not be the best idea for Bill and
myself – each is a jaunt let alone serially.
It turned out we didn’t struggle as much as many of the younger folks in
the narrow, enclosed spiral stairway tower to the top. Victory and views of the entire city were the
reward. It was rush hour so we were able
to watch some of the famous chaotic traffic around the Arc before we hit the
Metro and found our way back to a little Happy Time at our local brasserie.
On Thursday we decided to face the big museums. Frankly the Louvre is just overwhelming and
having been lost amongst the Egyptian antiquities in the mid-70’s (I was very
young), it has remained a bit of a force to be reckoned with for me.
Instead we started the day (and then lingered long into the
afternoon) at the Musee d’Orsay. Perhaps
my favorite museum of all time (although the Norton Simon and Glyptotek and
Palace of the Legion of Honor run neck and neck and neck and…). Filled with Impressionist works,
pre-Rafaelites (the romantics) and a healthy dose of furniture and architecture
as art this reconfigured train station has the most amazing light and the
architecture leaves you with an idea of how people travelled in the past –
within each small section of the museum, the names of the train destinations
are still present, carved at the top of the stone pillars in each corner.
The plan was to spend the late afternoon at the Louvre, map
out the ‘highlights’ (from 300,000 pieces of art?????) and see what we could
see, return Friday and see what we could see.
Well, we detoured to the Café de Marly overlooking the glass pyramid at
the Louvre. The people watching was too
delicious. The rich people at the tables
around us, the throngs/hoards/masses streaming by below us taking photos of
themselves and loved ones holding the pyramid between their fingers, lolling
about on the grounds facing the Tuilleries or just generally hanging out. When it occurred to us (that stupor of food
again) that we needed to at least get a map, we were too late by 3 minutes…oh well
back to the view.
