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art and travel journal from a round-the-world art adventure

Trip: Lahore101

There are [25] stories from my trip: Lahore101


PAKISTAN | Tuesday, 19 Feb 2008 | Views [1318] | Comments [3]

Two hours north west of Lahore, and half way to Gujranwala, is the town of Aminabad. Once prosperous, for the last 150 years it has been slipping into quiet obscurity. The decline began in the 19 th century with the realignment of the GT ... Read more >

Tags: culture

Jehangir's Tomb

PAKISTAN | Sunday, 3 Feb 2008 | Views [1614]

Just outside Lahore on the road that once connected Delhi to Kabul, and across the floodplain of the now dry Ravi, are the twin tombs of Nur Jahan and her husband, the Mughal Emperor Jehangir. The road, though now sheared of its ... Read more >

Tags: culture


PAKISTAN | Monday, 28 Jan 2008 | Views [3209]

Pakistan is well known internationally for its cricket, turbulent politics, and key role in the complex geostrategy of region. It also has a vigorous arts sector, and contributes strongly to the art of South Asia, of which the recent rise ... Read more >

Tags: Culture

Next door

PAKISTAN | Monday, 21 Jan 2008 | Views [905]

On Wednesday we returned to Pakistan after three weeks travelling through its neighbour, sometime enemy, and rising regional superpower, India. Crossing the border felt like coming home, and that small absurd step across an invisible line cleared ... Read more >

Tags: culture


INDIA | Monday, 14 Jan 2008 | Views [1196]

Jodhpur and Jaisalmer were founded to defend the great desert trading routes east and so surround enormous stone and mortar forts built atop rocky bluffs in the centre of town. From below the forts are everywhere visible, and from their ramparts ... Read more >

Tags: Culture


PAKISTAN | Monday, 7 Jan 2008 | Views [880]

Bhutto died on Thursday afternoon. Once confirmed word spread fast from mouth to mouth to mobile phone. What began as a certain posture between two men talking in a doorway spread quickly up and down the street. With regrettable, ... Read more >

Tags: on the road


PAKISTAN | Saturday, 29 Dec 2007 | Views [905]

Just before Pakistan proper ends, and the interzone of autonomous tribal regions begin, some 40km from the Afghan border, are a series of markets.    As with markets everywhere they sell everything, and the first hundred metres are dominated by ... Read more >

Tags: Markets

Fakir Khana

PAKISTAN | Wednesday, 19 Dec 2007 | Views [5915] | Comments [2]

Inside Bhatti Gate in the walled city, and just before the remains of the red light district, is the Fakir Khana Museum. Housed in a traditional three story house, and built on the collection of gifts and tributes paid to an advisor of Maharajah ... Read more >

Tags: Culture

Landa Bazaar

PAKISTAN | Wednesday, 12 Dec 2007 | Views [1431] | Comments [1]

Just past the Mayo Hospital is Landa bazaar. Or more precisely a Landa bazaar, as there is another further east running between Lahore Railway Station and the Delhi Gate of the old town. Both specialise in second hand clothes, much of it imported, ... Read more >

Tags: Shopping

Lahore Zoo

PAKISTAN | Tuesday, 4 Dec 2007 | Views [1918]

Zoos can be unhappy places. Even at home, where money and rendered concrete conspire to trick the viewer, though rarely the animals, into believing the cage to be some semblance of native habitat. This is true in part of Lahore Zoo;... Read more >

Tags: sightseeing

Rafi Peer

PAKISTAN | Monday, 26 Nov 2007 | Views [973]

In November the Rafi Peer Theatre Workshop holds its annual performing arts festival, with dancers, musicians, puppeteers, theatre troupes and comedians from Pakistan, the subcontinent and around the world. We went last night to see the Czech group ... Read more >

Tags: Culture

On with the show...

PAKISTAN | Monday, 19 Nov 2007 | Views [796] | Comments [1]

The week has been fairly occupied with preparations for the show next Monday at Alhamra Art Gallery. It is my first in Pakistan, and first solo abroad. The etchings are from the last four years and are inspired by people and places seen on my ... Read more >

Tags: culture

Sitar Lessons

PAKISTAN | Monday, 12 Nov 2007 | Views [1348]

Mehr goes to sitar lessons twice a week. She has been playing for six months on an ivory inlaid instrument that was once a gift from her father to her mother. The body, bulbous and chocolate brown, used to be a pumpkin. Tonight there ... Read more >

Tags: culture

The Wonder House

PAKISTAN | Monday, 5 Nov 2007 | Views [1496] | Comments [1]

The Lahore Museum, the 'Wonder House', was full on Saturday. They tell me it's the time to visit, now that the sauna heat of summer has passed but before winter sets in. I continue to wonder how cold that season will be - the locals speak of it with ... Read more >

Tags: culture

Lahore Fort

PAKISTAN | Monday, 29 Oct 2007 | Views [2557] | Comments [1]

We took the students drawing at Lahore Fort. This rambling array of palaces, courtyards, bath houses and mosques set in 42 acres of gardens seemed ideal for teaching perspective, and getting students out of the sterility of the basement drawing ... Read more >

Tags: culture


PAKISTAN | Monday, 22 Oct 2007 | Views [871] | Comments [1]

We spent the weekend in the former princely state of Bahawalpur. Prior to Partition the British ruled much of the subcontinent through the agency of local rulers bearing varying degrees of autonomy, though never in the critical areas of foreign affairs ... Read more >

Tags: Culture


PAKISTAN | Monday, 15 Oct 2007 | Views [772]

This weekend was Eid, the holiday that marks the end of the holy month of Ramadan. And so 30 odd days of fasting, prayers, and early morning breakfasts ended for 2007 and Lahore, and its people, will slowly return to normal. In the meantime ... Read more >

Tags: markets

General Election

PAKISTAN | Monday, 8 Oct 2007 | Views [1954] | Comments [2]

Pakistan held its Presidential elections on Saturday. While the results surprised few, Musharraf's ongoing constitutional ability to lead remains before the Supreme Court. It is not certain how much attention Musharraf will pay the lawyers - ... Read more >

Tags: people

Twin cities

PAKISTAN | Monday, 1 Oct 2007 | Views [768] | Comments [3]

The twin cities of Islamabad/ Rawalpindi sit about 300 km northwest of Lahore on the edge of both the NWFP [North West Frontier Province, a rag tag collection of government control and autonomous tribal areas] and Azad Jammu and Kashmir, Pakistan’s ... Read more >

Tags: on the road


PAKISTAN | Monday, 24 Sep 2007 | Views [808]

Shakeel is fifteen years old. His father, Mr. Haneef, is the chowkidar [caretaker] at the hostel I stay in. In any case they live together in a small flat at the back of the complex with their mother, two brothers, Shan and Adeel, age 7 and ... Read more >

Tags: people

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