Culture Clash

A young fellow approaches: “I fight tonight, come see!” With a cheeky grin, he shoves the leaflets into my hands, inviting us to watch Muay Thai. A proud Thai heritage, the traditional martial art is also known as the “Science of Eight Limbs” as all hands, feet, knees and elbows are used.

For novelty, we headed to Chiangmai’s Thapae Club where scrawny Wat earned his keep. At first glance, the spectator sport uncannily reminds of a human cockfight. Stripped to the bones, Muay Thai is fighting yet it serves as a healthy distraction from drugs and alcohol.

Wat, 22, is one possibly rescued from such fate. He skips school due to financial difficulties but trains religiously in the day for showdowns in the evenings.

Shortly after Thai national anthem, the Nak Muays enter. Wat steps over the top line of the ring, careful that head is above feet—the Thais believe the most important part of the body should always be held high. The fighters walk to the ring centre and break into a series of laughable dance steps, totally shattering the Tony Jaa stereotype. I found out from an easily excitable commentator that the strange dance was Wai Khru—a pre-match ritual in honor of the King and the fighter’s mentor—a mark of the highest respect.

Dang! They quickly unleash a series of lethal kicks flashed in a matter of seconds, and punches so furious they threaten to knock each other off their feet with each blow.

Look on the ring and catch a glimpse of the cultural stage of Thailand for the martial art packs intricate details of the Thai culture within. Those who love Thailand tend to like it for the very same reasons others find the sport distasteful.The city is disheveled yet captivating, noisy yet peaceful.

Similarly, what astounded me was not the fearsome fighters, the symbolic accessories they have or even the tough vices inevitably brought in, but the delicate rituals they perform, a representation of the culture and way of life of people in Thailand—for better or for worse.