Cambodia: The Land of Smiles, Come Rain or Shine; or Even Flood

Trundling down a narrow street the engine splutters and coughs as we bounce along, splashing in and out of the water. Mr. Sarain smiles back apologetically as we slow to a stop, “I'm sorry, I think you have get out,” he chuckles, pointing ahead. “Too deep for tuk-tuk, you go straight. Same time tomorrow?”
“Yeh, sounds good,” I call back as I tentatively begin wading homewards, unsure if the next step will leave me waist deep in what can now only be described as a small river.

I'm in Siem Reap for the second time in a year, however the town looks like a different place entirely. SE Asia is flooded. Disastrously so. Save a few familiar landmarks such as the roundabout and elephant statues on the nearby hotel, Sivatha Boulevard could be mistaken for a floating village.

I paddle home, doubtful if I would see Mr. Sarain the next day but hoping for the best. Dawn greets me with rain, an ever rising water level and unsurprisingly, no tuk-tuk! I am however given a kind message reiterating Mr. Sarain's unnecessary but genuine apologies.

Despite the deluge besieging this bustling little town a strange sense of indifference towards the encompassing water prevails, almost as if it were unremarkable. No longer can I distinguish where the river's edges begin or end and reports declare the floods in SE Asia the worst in living memory; apparently the inhabitants of Siem Reap have not yet been informed of this.

The floods, seemingly, are no reason to halt daily life and as a child being towed along in a metal bathing tub beams up at me I pause to look around. I cannot see a frown or a scowl; everywhere everything is done with a smile. The character and heart inherent in the Khmer people is humbling; I witness a boat sail down Pub Street, men relentlessly transporting sand bags to town and a young boy proudly declaring “You come to my country, you get free swimming pool!” Despite the water, the smiles and good nature exhibited ensure my time spent in flooded Siem is no wash out.