So today I’m in Langkawi, Malaysia, and as I type this, I’m sitting on the balcony of what could best be described as a shed, but is actually the optimistically titled ‘chalet bungalow’ I stayed in last night. It’s basic, but has the following: 1) Air Conditioning 2) A Proper Bed and 3) 10 steps away, a beautiful white sand beach, which I’m looking out over as I write this.
The last week I’ve spent on board the Yacht Meniscus, with the idea of becoming Competent Crew rather than Incompetent Crew (and chief gin & tonic maker). The yacht is owned by Mark, who set sail round the world 12 years ago and hasn’t quite made it back yet. He was also our instructor for the week. Also on board were Todd & James, who both live in Hong Kong and were training for their Day Skipper qualification.
We set off from Phuket last Wednesday, and 155 nautical miles later, arrived in Langkawi, having called in at Ko Phi Phi, Ko Lanta, Ko Libong, and Ko Tarutao (yes languages fans, Ko does mean island). But do you know what? It was really hard work!! Some days we were sailing for 8-9 hours without so much as a snorkel and swim stop. SOME mornings we’ve been sailing by 7am, and pretty much every morning we were awake by 6.30. Outrageous - that’s like being at WORK as I pointed out to Mark, who I think was a little disappointed in my lack of dedication.
Naturally, being me, I am covered in bruises. I currently have 5 on my right leg alone. Massive ones. Attractive huh? And I haven’t the faintest idea where they’ve come from.
But I feel I’m waffling, and not really giving you a sense of what life on board has been like. So let me run through my 2 favourite days.
But before I do, let me tell you more about my fellow sailors.
Todd is Canadian, and has lived in HK since leaving University - he works for Credit Suisse and has 2 huskies, and we likened him to a husky with his eagerness to get up RIDICULOUSLY early every morning!! Todd had a number of nicknames for me - primarily ‘Windsor’ and ‘Kitten’ - resulting in the classic line ‘But Kitten, you’re a puppy!’ when I was bemoaning my age.
James is, well, kind of British I guess, but has lived all over the world and now runs his own companies in HK. James is a very good sailor, and an even better breakfast chef, introducing me to the wonders of French Toast AND French Toast filled with Peanut Butter which I can verify is absolute heaven on earth.
My fellow students have been absolute stars and I’m going to miss them next week L
Mark I’ve told you a little about already - he’s sailed from the UK to the Caribbean, then across the pacific to Australia, up to Bali, then has been around Thailand/Malaysia for the last 4 years. He used to run pubs in the UK and is a great chef, whipping up amazing meals in the galley for us all.
On Friday, we had a latish start - setting sail about 9.30am. We sailed for about 2.5 hours to a tiny island called Ko Muk. I swam ashore, and it was beautiful - a tiny sandy beach, no one on it but me and a couple of fallen coconuts. It was real Robinson Crusoe/Blue Lagoon type stuff, and clearly I looked like Ursula Andress coming out of the water (ok ok, I did in my head anyway). Todd joined me onshore, and we had a bit of an explore of the beach.
After lunch, we took the dinghy over to Marakot (Emerald) Cave. This is a natural cave that’s formed an 80 metre (about 240 feet) tunnel through the rock to a central lagoon with sheer rock faces and a beautiful white beach. At first we shared it with a boatload of Thai tourists who were shrieking their heads off, but once they left, it was just the 4 of us. I can’t describe how lovely it was, so check out my photos on Picasa (when I upload them).
We then sailed on for another couple of hours to Ko Libong and moored overnight offshore, having dinner on the boat - with a table and everything. Lovely lovely day.
I kept swapping between sleeping on deck - which was cooler, but you do end up covered in dew - and sleeping in my cabin - hotter but softer. Usually I would swap between the two during the night!
My other favourite day was on Sunday - we had a short morning sail from Ko Tarutao national park to Langkawi, then spent the afternoon doing sailing exercises - tacking, gybing, man overboard etc. We then stopped at another beautiful beach, and James, Todd & I swam ashore for an explore.
Now, you can take the Canadian out of Canada, but you can’t take Canada out of the Canadian, so Todd immediately leapt into action and started building a dam. James weighed in with his construction knowledge and soon we had a positive citadel carved out on the shore.
Ooh and we saw a monkey on the beach.
So James & Todd left us last night to return to Hong Kong, and for the next week, Mark has the pleasure of me as his sole student, attempting to get me up to Day Skipper standard. So I think next week is going to be even tougher, as I’ve got to do ALL the hard work!!
That being the case, I decided last night that I NEEDED a proper shower, a proper bed and air conditioning, which brings me right back to where I started from - the balcony of my beach hut - my first ‘true’ backpacker night.
