Morning in Pokhara, the Trek o Tel, we bid farewell to our favorite banana salesman who waved, all smiles. Another crazed drive in the tiniest of tiny vehicles-between our packs and the driver we couldn’t have gotten much more in. Off to be delivered to the stairways to Dhampus, we were driven, dodging cycle carts, resting cattle, dogs, tractors, slower cars, oncoming traffic, streetcrossers, willy nilly without regard for any sign or line once suggestive of order but fully ignored. It’s exciting to travel by taxi here and you are always happy to reach your destination in one piece.
Several hours of uphill trekking later we came to Dhampus, an elongated village with several teahouses and a checkpost. We dutifully handed over our ACAP permits(which did specify we were doing both the circuit and the sanctuary) and were shortly informed they were no longer any good and we would have to pay $100 each to continue-hah! After nearly an hour of phone calls, developing a large crowd-we were the main event with most of the town arrived to watch!- we finally learned we would be permitted to proceed.
On to Deurali, 2 small lodges perched in the trees on a ridge overlooking the Modi Khola across from our trail to Birethanti several days prior. From this vantage point, a large landslide is visible cutting across that trail. And yes, we recall the lost stone path and a river rock strewn gouge with a small makeshift log bridge. The slide occurred 5 months previously during the monsoon. Luckily, between villages, and just a trail destroyed. The night is cold, we enjoyed apply fritters and sharing tales of the tour with a few travelers from Canada.
We traveled in open sun dappled forest thru Lhandruk(across the river from Ghandruk). A large private school attracted red uniformed students which we passed regularly this morning. An unusual amount of begging along this trail, we had no chocolate or school pens! But we were able to provide a bandaid for a cut toe and some dried apples which quickly disappeared. Down to New Bridge(in name only) past many waterfalls and finally stopped midway up another steep stairway in Jahunanda. They had welcome and superb “veggie burgers” and a hot spring close by for another soak. I had an opportunity to use a bit of my French! That night an unknown festival took place outside our door with lots of singing, dancing, and drumming. A marigold necklace left on the trail next morning made the remainder of the trip to the ABC(annapurna base camp) on the back of my pack.
We’ve now started stair insanity, daily multiple changes in altitude to avoid slides and cliffs and the river. Breakfast in Chomrong, and on to Dovan. Waterfalls everywhere. From Chomrong on the few lodges are built specifically for trekkers and climbers. The steep valley invites annual avalanches and regularly changes the trail system. With all the moisture, in warmer seasons, it is also a leech field. I’m very happy to have cooler days! We can see fresh snow on the peaks ahead. Snow from the cloudy days we recall a week past when looking this way from Tadopani. We are meeting up with a multitude of hikers without the entire circuit under there belts to acclimatize, plenty of huffing and puffing as we quickly gain elevation.
Along the river are forests of bamboo and orchids in season. An early morning start out of Dovan and we made ABC(4145m) by 11 am, clear skies, surrounded by Hiun Chuli(6484m), Annapurna South(7219m), the Fang(7647m), Annapurna 1(8091m), Khangsar Kang(7485m), Glacier Dome(7089m), Gangapurna(7455m), Annapurna 3(7555m), Gandharwa Chuli(6248m), Machupuchare(6980m), Mardi Himal(5553m), and Tent and Fluted peaks closer in . The recent snow has left ice surrounding the 2 lodges here. Nice and warm in the sun, we hike thru 100’s if cairns commemorating climbers and trekkers who have passed this way as well as the many who have not returned from climbs to these many peaks. A narrow ridge gains access to one of the hanging glaciers between Hiiun Chuli and Annapurna South. Small avalanches are constantly audible. The sun dipping behind HC is brilliant, glowing, mysical. Sunset finally sends us in to share the heated table with about 20 other lodgers, and dinner served up at 6pm. It’s amazing they keep us all straight and know what we have ordered. It is a star filled night but too cold for much outside contemplation.
From here we hike out the way we came in staying in Bamboo rather than Dovan. It is surely easier heading down! In no hurry to get back to Pokhara- we stayed a night in Chomrong, enjoying cheaper prices of goods from the kerosene depot and taking in the last views of the sanctuary-at a distance. Found some ancient glacier goggles in an old shophere. They have to be 50+ years old, worn leather surrounding a smoked looking glass or maybe it is cut and polished quartz! hard to tell... The town is steeply settled on a series of terraces.
Onward to Ghandruk again for our final night out trekking. Waved in to the “Excellent View Lodge” by the lovely elder owner, she was ever so happy to have us stay. We had an excellent view to be sure-of this traditional old Gurung village. The homes closely placed with stone courtyards for threshing or holding livestock. Most two stories, the top for storing grain or dried goods. A colorful, abundant garden here, and clean small rooms. A fine location to contemplate our journey. Next morning, our final walk out on the trail to Birethanti, we had several shop owners recognize us from the week before!
Off to Pokhara and the Trek o Tel!
