We are VERY happy to celebrate a change in the US government!
I beleive I left you alond a trail of rhededendron and fragrant hardwood and pine. We continued along this trailpast newly hewn wood beam homes, a bit of kitten time, and an overnight with GREAT solar showers. Nothing like hot water to clean off the grime. The banana trees and oranges are no longer abundant. Now we walk along fields of illicit(to us) plants which teh locals use to smudge their homes with in teh morning. That and with cedar branches. Marigolds are abundant. The steep green hillsides breqak way to the snowy visible peaks beyond. I found a seamstress to repair my little daypack. . We stayed in Dharapani near a hot spring-quite filthy. The food here was delicious-vegetabel spring rolls, momos, fried rice, tea. We get to sleep at about 7pm and are up typically by 6. Breakfast is tea and tibetan bread-a nice fried bread.
Beyond Chamre we passed beneath an immense sloped wall of, perhaps, granite. Smooth mostly and a 50-60 degree angle and probably 2000ft. The entire wall forms an enormous corner in teh trail and we now loose sight of Manasalu at the entrance to path to Tibet. As we climb, the sky is darkening to a very deep blue-lapis. Plenty of donkey traffic and horses now. All adorned with their tinkling bells and embroidered headwear. As well they carry enoomrous loads, yet never as large as that of the porters. We crossed a rickety old footbridge to a thin path up to upper Pisang, now gaining to 14,000ft. This midieval town sets along the hillside, withprayerflags flying from each home an log poles, topped with sacred offerings of juniper. A little food and we hiked to the foot of the trail up to Gyarhu. Sitting at teh Mani wall below, we have to extend our necks completely to jsut barely see teh town above. And teh steps and path a small zigzag straight up 2000ft! Wheew. The views of Annapurna 2 are awesome! It is right in front of us, snowcovered, with spindrift whirling off of the peak. Now the nights demand all of the down gear. VERY chilly in drafty stone rooms. At least no mosquitos. And tonite no barking dogs! Our hot shower today was a abit of boiled water in a bucket. Splurged on french fries-nice fresh cut locally grown potatoes and salty-mmm. We're now seeing folks having altitude problems. So far so good for us.
As we head out past a monastery the monks are out having a chant and watch us pass. There are mostly flat rooved homes here. Grains, vegetables and fruit alll are threshed, sliced, dried on the rooves. Oh, and of course the meat if eaten. We hiked trhu interesting hillocks of stone and gravel and sandy soul. Lots of goats and many cows. No water buffalo here as it is too cold. We are finally seeing Yaks, with alal of their bushy fur and huge horns. Every now and then we pass a school. Today the treat was chocolate cake-the best ever, from the Braga bakery. Sitting outside a large buddha statue below the Braga Gompa. Crossed a dry river bed with folks scattered around. Evidently this was a slaughter day and we have seen numerous people carrying their loads of various Yak body parts in baskets or just tied and hung from their headstraps! Manqang is famous for it's yak meat! Yak cheese also-and this is pretty good-like a strong gouda. Many of bakerys here for some reason. They have very good cinnamon rolls-at least now we are finding bread with leavening. Not the norm. And also Seabuckthorn juice which is so good. Sweet and tart like apricot nectar!
From Manang we took a side trip to Tilicho Tal. First a stop in Khangsar for breakfast. The lovley smiling matron lead us up on teh roof to take in the view. Our first oppportunity to use the cut out log which is teh common ladder here. We can see Annapurna2 and Tilicho Peak, and "Le Grand Barrier" which stumped Herzog during the french assault on Annapurna 1 in teh 50's. The trail continued to climb along an avalanche slope. From a distance, this did not look like a hopeful trail. I opted for the high route which took us over a pass at 15,700' and then dropped us immediately back down another debris slope! We made it unscathed but certain not to return by that trail. Spent the night in this rudimentary dorm surrounded by several other trekkers. The early monring took us up the remainder of this trail to the worlds highest lake, at this time not frozen, but nestled in and surrounded by firm, styrofoam sounding, hoarfrost coated snowfields. Here it would have been delightful to have skis, though Walter insists this was not corn. The winds howled and we had to cover all explsed parts to prevent frostbite-but the scenery is unreal_had we the time and equiptment-quite a place to spend some time snow and ice climbing. We watched as many porters dragged casmp up here for a French group walking over this pass. Tables and chairs and even live chickens! They each carry some 70-80kg! And not always with more than sandals on.
Had to backtrack someways and then on ot the not so set path-the width of a boot in many spots with 1000' above and below-steep. The signs kindly suggest avalanche danger and obiously the path is altered yearly. A little hard breathing here, I far prefer the altutude with solid footing! Ah, I have forgotten to mention our delightful toilets-of course they are squatters. The Tilicho camp squatter jsut the bare minimum of wood planks over a hole. NIce!
My shirt, after a washing was frozen solid inposition upon awakening in our next location. We could see the face of Bob Marley in the snow slope across from us! Walter thought it was Christ, but with all of the colorful prayer flags and in the snow here in Nepal, I think it is Bob for sure. We have some new friends from Prague. Walked with them to the next town. We now head over the Thorung La! 17,650'.
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